Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i was just driving normaly on the weekend, i shifted into 2nd and was just on light throttle since i was in traffic, and for a split second there was a cut of power, as if the car died for only a millisecond, driving was like rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.rrrrrrrrrrrr, the full stop being the cut point, i cant really explain it any better. it was fine afterwords and didnt do it again since, but im really stressed that something is going to die on me, because its my only car to get to work.

i know its only a very minor thing that happened, but i know its not normal and i want to catch whatever issue has caused it to cut out for a split second before its to late.

things that i think it may be are

fuel pump? it has the original fuel pump and has 150k on the dial

tps sensor?

timing?

an injector is tired? (ive run injector cleaner plenty of times prior to this event)

car is a 1993 r33 gtst, full exhaust, fmic, factory airbox, splitfires, factory bov

cheers for any assistance

he means inside the box where the plug goes.

i had this happen to me on 2 seperate occasions, both a long time ago. one of those times it stalled. both times was at light throttle.

but it's never happened again. i put it down to some crap in the fuel? dirty filter? fuck knows? anyway, i changed the fuel filter and cleaned my afm just in case.

yea the solder parts, ill inspect them tonight and give the afm a clean

i have a new fuel filter so i dont think its that

on a side note, in the mornings when i first start the car, instead of a clean initial rev upto 1500 or whatever it is so it warms up, and normaly comes down to normal idle after a min or so, the initial rpm drops down to 500 or so and sounds like it struggles and nearly stalls, but when i give the throttle a tap it revs right up to 1500-2000 for a couple of seconds then repeats the above normal procedure.

what can cause this? ive cleaned my aac valve quickly (needs to be properly done)

possible missfire ? if it keeps happening I'd check the coilpacks and ignitor module (if it's an S1) and also the spark plugs. Just tape up the coil packs or start the car (cold) in a dark garage with the coilpack cover off - if there are any visible sparks, it's the coilpacks.

should be good if they're only 20k old .. they will outlast the car easily. Um not sure how to check if the ignitor module is playing up, but I'm sure I've read it here somewhere before so just do a search (keep in mind only S1 R33s have it .. S2 is built into the coilpacks). Also check the AFM solders.

If you've just quickly cleaned the AAC valve did you check and make sure the old paper gasket didn't get damaged in the process ? Or maybe you moved the idle screw by accident ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
×
×
  • Create New...