Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

DVS32R, yeah that's correct due to the mixture burning later in the power cycle, hence less time to cool before leaving the cylinder.

Also Stao, yeah he was deliberately keeping power low up top to conserve the engine. I agreed with this choice. This tune is somewhat mild all over though for the same reason.

The only way to decrease the forces acting against the wastegate+actuator is to either let off the throttle, or somehow restrict the pressure acting against the actuator. This is where a boost controller comes in.

In my scenario, adding a boost controller only increases boost between 4,000-5,000rpm after that it drops to the same level. This means that even with the actuator receiving almost no boost signal (boost controller) the wastegate flow is still pushing the wastegate flapper open and overpowering the actuator spring.

Also Stao, yeah he was deliberately keeping power low up top to conserve the engine. I agreed with this choice. This tune is somewhat mild all over though for the same reason.

My thinking at the moment is whats the point in having these large turbos and then restricting them to 280-290rwkw. We would be better off with more responsive turbos that still make 280-290rwkw peak.

The latest 3071 0.82 result from Hektik is excellent, full boost at 3600rpm and still makes 280rwkw.

Well I'll end up pushing the turbo into it's correct comfort zone when I get back from Europe later in the year....then when my engine goes pop, I'll be able to keep using it. For now, it's still perfectly good for what it's doing.

  • 1 year later...

Hi,

Did some search and decided to revive this thread. I am having boost creep. Its a hybrid R33 turbo with HT18 exhaust setup and bored out comp housing etc.

On the dyno it was creeping badly just off the w/g actuator, from say 8psi through to 18psi(very bad eh). The tuner used the Link G4 Boost controller to settle it around 16psi max creep.

I currently am using the stock actuator - 7psi. I realised that might be the issue? Trying to get a solid 16psi. On the dyno she made 275kw @ 17-18psi, but that was with the creep.

On the road its like this - 2nd gear.. I get 7psi instantly, but it starts to creep around 5k. All I want is a solid 16psi roughly from 3500-4000rpm. I have a feeling it may be the actuator thats the problem though.

I'm picking up an R32 actuator this sunday to see whether that helps(10psi). Any thoughts in my situation?

A stiffer actuator wont help the wastegate flow more which is what you need when boost spikes. Perhaps you can grind the hole bigger but then you will definitely need the larger actuator.

I can get that done no worries. Im assuming that at around 5k, the exh gases are causing the flapper to close due to the weak 7psi spring.

Its so frustrating on the road, it feels like driving a big laggy turbo, lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
    • Yeah, saw the ratios, not impressed. Would like the punch I have in the first gears now. With those ratios it won't be the same.  Also want the h pattern gearing, or at least a quiet gear set that don't need to come apart for service each year. Looks like the only "reasonable" way Is a 8hp70 transmission, but where is the fun in that🤷‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...