Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 206
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 weeks later...

Haven't got it back yet. I've been garenteed to have it this friday, which i will make sure happens cause i've hired baskerville for the whole day this saturday. I'm just about sick of waiting though, was supposed to be done 2 months ago. Will post up results along with a detailed list of what been done to it as soon as i get the chance to.

  • 2 weeks later...

Alrighty, Got her back yesterday. dont have the dyno sheets on me but i remember most the figures i think.

Firstly i'd like to mention cause she's got a stock slush box in it, i'm refering to the auto, we couldn't push it to much and we were getting consistant 175rwkw and we could of got a few more pounds of boost on but the gearbox won't handle any more power. So for the time being we've dropped it back to 165rwkw until i get around to putting a r33 manual box it. Mechanic has told me with a conversion and a retune we would get over 200 atw.\

I think i had about 75~78 rwkw before and about 200nm torque, she now has around 165rwkw and somewhere over 400nm torque.

like i mentioned above, its a stupid auto. will get around to that when i have money. dont have any pictures or the dyno sheets on me but i will get them to ya's as soon as i run out of money for fuel.

oh and the boost is coming on around 3000rpm when ya flick through the gears your self and a little later when in drive.

it is a little laggy for my liking but its also a good thing cause i can drive her around lightly when i dont want to attract attention.

will get more to ya's soon.

sounds good and well done for doing it differently. you might find it cheaper to tuffen up the std auto vs changin to manual? just a thought

also if its auto youll have auto diff gears, you can get some more response changing to 4.11 diff gears (manual)

the gear box is on its way out, i have a spare one but i have no idea on it's condition, when i booked it in we were going to put an lsd in it but i forgot to ask if that got done. guess i'll have to go do a road test and work that out. what costs are involved in making the auto tougher? im assuming the lsd would have manual diff gears but as i have no knowledge on that topic i am just assuming.

running about .8bar, which is about 12psi i think. engine has only just been rebuilt and i'm running it in as per my mechanics instructions.

will hopefully get some stuff up for ya's later on today, wont be able to get any decent pictures up for a bit cause i can't get under the car. tis very low.

any one who wants to have a look at it just drop me a pm, im in Tas (Hobart) so all my two headed cousin's can have a peek.

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got off my arse, here's the dyno sheets. Second one is just an enlarged pic of the before/after dyno.

Keep in mind she's got a tourque convertor and we had to tune it down due the the slush box being a shit box.

post-77498-0-29626100-1294019421_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-48258800-1294019448_thumb.jpg

Now lets hope that works and you can all see.

Putting it up on the hoist tomorro so i'll try get some pics of the set up for ya's.

Sorry for making you all wait.

yeah i'm pretty happy with it.

Just sourced a manual lsd cheap so that should improve takeoff response i assume. Seeing as i have an auto diff.

And i've just been reading that a r33 auto box will fit into a 31. I'm seriously considering that if i can get it on the cheap seeing as i won't be able to afford a r33 manual conversion for sometime.

If anyone wants more info let me know and i should be able to get ya the answers, don't really feel like doing a full write just now. too lazy!

Have a search through the for sale section, there was an r33 auto in there with shift kit for $200 i think, they were also selling a higher stall converter seperate from memory, should be exactly what you need.

cheers, reading more i discovered that the box will fit really easily except the speedo wiring and plugs are different, however, the 31 speedo fits the 33 speedo housing which is good cause then my speedo reads correctly?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...