Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Word of advice,

If youre going with a pod, buy a 3A brand filter... $30 at most and outperforms ALL big brand jap and local stuff in filtering ability and most in flow too. Usually sold at Motorquipe.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well..i went into villis tonight and it was uncomfortable to say the least.. i had no idea who i was looking for and the fact there were 30 pensioners behind me with an acoustic guitar frightened me. it was you guys wasn't it? thats why you drive wagons, to keep your guitars and walking frames handy..

but yeah, dissapointing :banana: i guess it was my own fault, it's disarming having a room full of peoples eyes glued to you and i was too afraid to ask someone, on the plus side i think i disturbed a few children.

anyway if it's a regular thing i'll come down next friday? i'm pretty easy to spot, a bandy legged kid with a funny hair cut and unsightly tats. so please say hi or at least tell me who to look for.

thanks guys

oooh. so it was you who was going back and forward in the white 34.

yeah... we were all sitting in the outdoor area.

oooh. so it was you who was going back and forward in the white 34.

yeah... we were all sitting in the outdoor area.

hahahaha yeah that was me, made the mistake of looking for other skylines. mystery solved

hahahaha yeah that was me, made the mistake of looking for other skylines. mystery solved

There were a few skylines parked in the carpark/street, including 2 stageas :(

Drop in again this friday and say hi ya big girl :whistling:

i just switched from a Apexi power intake pod/with heatshield to stock airbox with K&N panel - seems to be slightly less hesitant and pulls just as hard/harder (definitely more quiet) so i might stick with the panel for a while!

do miss the induction sound from the pod already tho...oh well :down:

Not so sure Dave, I've been doing alot of reading into the arc airbox. They have no direct air flow to them so sucking hot air from the engine bay, there heavy so I'm thinking a well setup pod, heatshield and cai would be much better.

I'm a fan of people hooking up 1 or 2 plastic pipes from the bumper grille, into the standard airbox. Wouldn't mind seeing what happens then. Only colder air, less police attention in the engine bay.

theyre heavy? news to me.

ive got the 'lack of direct airflow' thing covered, a $5 cai from bunnings running from next to the passenger side foglight to the hole right in front of the airbox. problem solved.

just ditched my apexi pod for stock box and hi flow panel

sound = not so mean... but pulls better then a heat soaked pod

now to remake the intake snorkel into a wide mouth carbon fibre funnel and create headlight cover with flow direction into the snorkel ???

increase the lid top intake velocity/flow by doubling the hole size and smooth/direct flow inside the box

just ditched my apexi pod for stock box and hi flow panel

sound = not so mean... but pulls better then a heat soaked pod

this is what i found when i changed from twin pods to the stock air box on the GTR, i noticed straight away that the car kept pulling hard right high into the revs, with the pods on it seemed to feel like it would hiss and make induction noise but then the power would trail off as all its sucking in is hot air.

i did miss the suction noise so i put the pods back on, but the loss in power because of the 'hot air intake' was not worth the sound.

on the GTR i have pulled that resonator thing out of the front bar, so running 16psi low and 21psi high boost i can hear the induction noise through that a little more.

seems like troy and i went from the same setup on the same cars back to the standard box! both had benefits...

+1 on your idea for the 'darth vader' of air intakes dude, anybody know anyone in adelaide who can custom make this sort of shit?

seems like troy and i went from the same setup on the same cars back to the standard box! both had benefits...

+1 on your idea for the 'darth vader' of air intakes dude, anybody know anyone in adelaide who can custom make this sort of shit?

Yes. me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...