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Recently had an igniter go and had to have the car towed to a workshop. One of their suppliers suggested using an RB25 igniter as the plugs are the same, it's less than half the price, and just needs pins rearranged. I was sceptical but they were adamant. This lasted about 100km and died.

Supplier has taken the unit to test it and in the meantime I've checked earths to the coils (new loom) and the igniter - apparently a bad earth can dramatically increase current draw and fry things - and the earths are fine.

So either the RB25 solution isn't a good one, or 'something' like a voltage spike - not sure from what - killed it. The question is, what?

Have order a gen Nissan one as it'll last another 20 years but don't want to risk blowing that at $750 if something killed the other one rather than it failing due to poor parts selection.

Grateful for any feedback if someone's been down this path.

Cheers

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that's exactly the question; what else - within reason - kills them.

the dilemma is created by the RB25 one failing so soon, but it's unknown if lack of compatibility with the RB26 is the reason. so i could replace the RB25 one but if it's the wrong part it'll blow again and i still won't know if it's compatibility or another fault.

there's prob not much known about the relative differences between 25/26 igniters so i reckon i'm better off trying to look for other reasons to eliminate the chance of frying another unit whether i go back to an RB26 unit or keep on with the RB25 one. the voltage spike theory was only one possibility, i'm not sure if it's even possible to get a spike to the igniter.

hope that makes sense.

Module is from a 300ZX as it turns out. Part no 2202097E11. Much smaller than the RB26 module so I wonder if that's causing the problem though why remains a mystery. Maybe the RB26 runs greater current than the 300zx.

Interestingly here's a link to a US site that shows the wiring conversion. Doesn't show if it stayed working. 300zx module is only about $300 vs $770 for the RB26 one.

Edited by Scooby

I fried an ignitor in my Stag. Bought a new one from Nissan and it died a few months later! Went all over my wiring, checked grounds, supply, untaped the coil loom and checked everything. I even replaced the coilpacks with splitfires and then the ignitor died again! I cut open the box and discovered the common ground track had fried. I soldered a piece of wire over it and good as gold. It has been going for over a year now! I also looked at a dead one my mechanic had and it had also blown in the same spot. Repaired it, works perfectly. Also repaired my first one and carry it around in theboot just in case :blush:

Thanks guys. Based on Simon's post I think Zebra's suggestion is a good one. I'll call Ray Hall tomorrow to see what they know.

Started another thread to see how many people have had issues with Vipec and igniters.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Vi...rs-t340779.html

Edited by Scooby

Dwell was checked by Ray Hall, all good. Appears the only likely cause is a bad earth. So now I'm running a new 300ZX igniter with a large heatsink, earthing paste on the underside, and the seperate earth wire from the igniter connected to a coil hold down screw.

30km so far so good. Awaiting analysis of fried unit later this week.

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