Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Moisture in indicator is almost unavoidable unfortunately, very fine cracks will cause moisture to get in there when it's humid/raining...either go nuts with some silastic or spend hundreds on new tail light assemblies :laugh:

If there's moisture in the boot, you might have the same problem as me. Remove your spare tyre - in the well that it sits in, there will be a couple of holes in the bottom. I think there will be at least 1 small hole (10c piece size) and one fking huge one (like 10cm diametre) There should in theory be a rubber plug for at least this large hole....if you've got the same issue as me, then you won't have a plug lol. Water can spray up off the road and into this hole, in turn finding it's way into the boot. Just cover the hole with something, like a flat piece of rubber that you can cut to size (a little larger of course) and sit over top, or a flat piece of wood....or whatever you want lol

Moisture in indicator is almost unavoidable unfortunately, very fine cracks will cause moisture to get in there when it's humid/raining...either go nuts with some silastic or spend hundreds on new tail light assemblies :laugh:

If there's moisture in the boot, you might have the same problem as me. Remove your spare tyre - in the well that it sits in, there will be a couple of holes in the bottom. I think there will be at least 1 small hole (10c piece size) and one fking huge one (like 10cm diametre) There should in theory be a rubber plug for at least this large hole....if you've got the same issue as me, then you won't have a plug lol. Water can spray up off the road and into this hole, in turn finding it's way into the boot. Just cover the hole with something, like a flat piece of rubber that you can cut to size (a little larger of course) and sit over top, or a flat piece of wood....or whatever you want lol

TA! Appreciated.

Long as moisture in the tail light won't ruin it, just look a little blech... least will dry out.

As for the boot I'll check it out later.

potentially it could cause damage, but mine's been doing it since I bought the car in april last year (and god knows how long before that) and it's never even blown bulbs...if something dies inside there as a result, you're in the same boat as you would be if you chose to replace them now.

good luck with the boot issue, hopefully it's the same as my problem :laugh: easy fix, hopefully you're not like me though and just couldn't be fked.

*Grumbles*

I was looking at doing a HID conversion, but after a lotta thinking and reading, firstly would need 2 kits for high and low beam, secondly supposedly needs cutting mods made to the plastic housing bit that screws in and holds the bulbs etc..

Sounds like too much effort, and too much chance of me getting it wrong.

I only have one for low beams....and never use high beam anyway. My high beam SUCKS ASS, and my lows are blindingly bright enough to do the job. I often drive back from sydney after midnight in the pitch black only with low beams, does the job fine.

I only have one for low beams....and never use high beam anyway. My high beam SUCKS ASS, and my lows are blindingly bright enough to do the job. I often drive back from sydney after midnight in the pitch black only with low beams, does the job fine.

What ones did u get? Brand kit. And are they the 6000k ones?

Did you have to make much mods on the car to fit the globes etc?? As in drill out the black housing bit?

Supposedly with these I don't.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...T#ht_1014wt_905

*EDIT* seriously, if you can, ask your gf/friend/fembot to take it over (skimpy clothing helps) and be a bit blond about it. they'd probaby pass a gokart if its brought over by sexy chick. thats how we pass my missus S14 over with heaps of mods

Hopefully that works for mine.... Maybe I need to borrow some other chicks in skimpy clothes to drop it off with me :)

Hopefully that works for mine.... Maybe I need to borrow some other chicks in skimpy clothes to drop it off with me :verymad:

Always worth a try, just take photo's.

I got mine through at premier automotive in mitchell.

I did put stock rims on though. Fixed a couple lights and bingo.

What oil do you guys use, brands, viscosity and where do you buy it + approx price?

I've been reading a thread about oils etc, but wanna get some advice from you guys also. And what about filters?

I've always used Motul 8100 excess, ~$80/5L...but I'm going to be trying a different oil for my next change since 5w40 is a little thin for summer running high boost. 10w40 Nulon will probably be my next trial.

There's a really good sticky thread in the General Maintenance section on here you should read, all about oils and people's experiences. Don't read from the start, go from around 5 pages before the end imo.

There's a really good sticky thread in the General Maintenance section on here you should read, all about oils and people's experiences. Don't read from the start, go from around 5 pages before the end imo.
I've been reading a thread about oils etc, but wanna get some advice from you guys also. And what about filters?

It left me fairly confused still. so many different thoughts and opinions. I might just use what ever had been used previously in it. I think it was Motul, and it was the 5w30 or 10w40.. but gotta check with the guy again.. That was why asked for some advice cos i'm still pretty confused... I'd rather not spend heaps more than have to on the oil, but I wanna keep the car running beautifully also.

I use the 4100 aswell. just got it from Trojan in mitchell, reckon that's what they use for the majority of their skyline servicings and such

Called Trojan tis $59 for the oil and $20 for the genuine nissan filter. Seems alright.

Also I keep hearing bout Sougi - where and how do you get that, and is it worth it and available here?

From what I read:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...nded+engine+oil

I'd prob best like to be running a 10w40 oil.. Now to decide what one, where to get it, and whats the best price vs quality balance for these.. And also gotta sort out a good quality filter etc. BTW How many liters of oil go into an r33?

Edited by J'son

10w40 would be Motul 300v (lol $120/5L), Motul 4100 turbolight (semi-synthetic), Sougi Syn-x (semi-synthetic), sougi m5000 (I think it's 10w40, but it's mineral-based semi-synth apparently), or Nulon somethingsomething "100% synthetic" lol

those are just off the top of my head, there'd be other brand options out too, but I don't know of them tbh

Edited by Trozzle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...