Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Shaking Under Acceleration

sturb25

By sturb25,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Stagstock Community Regular

Stagstock

Posted
Posted

Guys this is usually attributed to the transfercase to front diff tailshaft. Pull it out and you will notice that as you turn the uni joints around manually they will be quite notchy. The other usual cause for this is the front CV joints needing the grease to be removed and repacked. But I'd be pulling the front tail shaft out first and feeling if the uni's move without any notchy spots. My bet is it will be! Seen atleast 4 like that now including my own.. replace the shaft.. all good.

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted
OSF TRACK ROD END WORN BUT NOT SURE IF IS THE PROBLEM , WAS STARTING TO THINK ABOUT SOME SORT OF BUSH SOMEWHERE IN THE DRIVE-TRAIN MOUNTING , WILL CHANGE TRACK ROD END FRIDAY AND SEE

Caps lock off please :P

STG25T Rookie

STG25T

Posted
Posted
Guys this is usually attributed to the transfercase to front diff tailshaft. Pull it out and you will notice that as you turn the uni joints around manually they will be quite notchy. The other usual cause for this is the front CV joints needing the grease to be removed and repacked. But I'd be pulling the front tail shaft out first and feeling if the uni's move without any notchy spots. My bet is it will be! Seen atleast 4 like that now including my own.. replace the shaft.. all good.

can the joints be replaced or do you need to replace the whole shaft!

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Welcome back to the forums mat! Hope your ready for some fishing this summer, I'm inquiring into buying a tinny tomorrow. Look out all garfish in the bay! Haha

And to ben, the shaft isnt that hard to drop out, I somehow can get a socket on one end and ring spanner on the other... Intact I can often crack them by just using the socket end sure they spin a few times before they bite and un-do but it does happen eventually. They don't need to be ball breaker tight either. Got a spare shaft you can try here to ben if your joints are suspect not sure how good the joints of my spare are but you could use it to eliminate issues :-)

RS4StagMan Rising Star

RS4StagMan

Posted
Posted

I've also noticed I am starting to get this slight shuddering under hard acceleration ...happens from about 50-90 km/hr.

Also have a slight noise, much more pronounced when turning out of corners but related to heavy throttle and heavy engine load only...doesn't do it at idle or when engine is revved at idle. Kind of sounds like a wheel bearing noise but not the wheel bearings...CV's ? driveshaft uni's? accessory pulley? water pump? Related to above problem or seperate?

I call it the 'Stagea Strange Noise' (SSN) and keep driving.

4bidn1 Mentor

4bidn1

Posted
Posted

Well been chasing this same vibration problem now for a couple of weeks so far replaced front cv joints, wheel alignment, then today replaced front drive shaft from transfer case (with a GTR one) coz removed old one and def felt notchy and guess what still getting vibration :) ???????? what next rear drive shaft any one had trouble with these seems to bo a cv joint in them as well as uni joints

cheers

rose

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted
yeah new wheels on there all balanced also had two other sets on there all did it as well :)

If the problem is not sorted by the time of the Stagea cruise I'll jump in the car with you and see if I can diagnose it for you.

:)

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
Guys this is usually attributed to the transfercase to front diff tailshaft. Pull it out and you will notice that as you turn the uni joints around manually they will be quite notchy. The other usual cause for this is the front CV joints needing the grease to be removed and repacked. But I'd be pulling the front tail shaft out first and feeling if the uni's move without any notchy spots. My bet is it will be! Seen atleast 4 like that now including my own.. replace the shaft.. all good.

Well the bolts were effing tight and I'll end up replacing all the nuts - 2 of them got burred. But, the sucker is out, and the uni's _are_ knackered.

I'll be dropping the shaft into Adelaide Tailshaft Services ASAP to get the uni's replaced. A new shaft is $1100 (special price) from Nissan...

I test drove the car last night, and the vibration under hard throttle seems to be fixed (but the traction is certainly reduced. For those that have wondered - the ATTESA-ETS is used LOTS, even in everyday driving). However, my wife has indicated that a vibration at ~100km/h is still there. Its nature is consistent of wheel balance issue (rotation movement in the steering wheel), so I'll be getting that seen to this weekend (which is almost due anyway), but will check the CV's for play between now & then.

Joe_89 Experienced

Joe_89

Posted
Posted

Really not a fan of auto gearboxes and so i dont know enough to be able to know, but is clutch shudder possible with an auto?

Edit: Didnt see the second page, seems to have been resolved lol

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Guys this is usually attributed to the transfercase to front diff tailshaft. Pull it out and you will notice that as you turn the uni joints around manually they will be quite notchy. The other usual cause for this is the front CV joints needing the grease to be removed and repacked. But I'd be pulling the front tail shaft out first and feeling if the uni's move without any notchy spots. My bet is it will be! Seen atleast 4 like that now including my own.. replace the shaft.. all good.

How do u pull out your front uni, theres four bolts toward the front of the car which will detach the front end. Does the back end simply pull out, if it does is there going to be any oil/fluid come out or is it like a dry spline.

  • 1 month later...
4bidn1 Mentor

4bidn1

Posted
Posted (edited)

well i still have this persistant little problem of the shudders all uni and CV joints replaced new front drive shaft in big improvments, but looks like problem has been located while having the car up on the hoist to fit auto shift kit in had a good look around and the rear drive shaft center bearing looks deteriated giving the drive shaft some play especially when the drive line has warmed up so looks like replacement time hard part is have to take it out so can take it to some one so they can match new one up unless any one on here knows part number for one. But the MV automatics shit kit is excellent best improvment yet :wub: chirps in to second

Edited by 4bidn1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • funkymonkey
      Returning after a long time!

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Por que no los dos? At least my euro brawler is reliable - unlike the JDMs I've had. Sheraaz you look familiar, did you ever come to an SAU VIC meet aaaaaages ago?
    • funkymonkey
      Phone photo thread

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Drove to Cape Schanck to try to get a nice clear southern view over the ocean to see the lights a couple of days ago... instead got crappy cloud cover. Photo of a diorama of Hong Kong street scene. Taken on an iPhone 13 Pro Max.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • MBS206
      Belt flex under throttle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
×
×
  • Create New...