Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys anyone know the difference in spool / response and outright power between the two variants of the R34 N1s ie. the one the 0.6 a/r compressor compared to the 0.42 a/r

It seems every thing is identical besides for the comp a/r and i cant seem to find anything on the larger one

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

ooh... Are the exh manifolds off the R34 N1/nur engine the same as a standard rb26? ...These are the gold-ish cover engine right?

Edited by Don Dada
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341727-r34-n1-turbo-variants/
Share on other sites

are you sure one of the BNR34's is a 0.42a/r compressor?

from memory only BNR32/BCNR33 is 0.42a/r front whereas BNR34 is 0.53a/r and thats for the std trim items, never heard of 0.42a/r BNR34 stockers, let alone N1 or nismo items

yeah there are definitely R34 N1s with .64 exhaust AR and 0.42 comp AR and ones with same exhaust but .60 comp AR. guys AR is not the size of the thing. it's a ratio. ratio of area to radius. yes generally housings with a smaller AR ratio are physically smaller but it's not necessarily true, they are a different shape. size of wheels etc is needed too so you can tell if a turbo is physically bigger or smaller and it's power potential.

Yea if u look at the oem R34 ceramic turbo with the 0.53 a/r it is physically smaller than the earlier R32/33 turbos with the 0.42 a/r

I'm thinking due to wheel design efficiency it allowed them to run a smaller a/r on the last of the N1 turbos (aa403) yet maintain good flow... same as the N1 equivalent the -7 and the even more efficient -9 which both use 0.42 comps as well

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm

exactly. the 0.53 AR R34 standard turbo is a physically smaller housing than the 0.42AR R34 N1 housing. they are a good thing. I think from memory GT-SS are 0.64 AR rear and 0.42 AR comp too? could be wrong that's off the top of my head. but as you say there is a garret equivalent bolt on turbo for GTR in the same 0.42 comp AR with 0.64 AR rear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
×
×
  • Create New...