Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

As this car ways a little over 1000 kg the rb20 will pull it along just fine for now. I do want se traction after all :P I will prob buy a rb25 later and open it up then fill it with goodies to make it nice and strong. From what I understand the rb20 can take more punishment than the other rb engines in stock form.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6152440
Share on other sites

The RB20 should serve you well for the time being, but if you do find yourself wanting some extra power then i would advise going with a RB25 like you mentioned above. Sure you can get good power from a RB20 but with the money thats needed to do that your better off with a 25.

And i take that from the pictures above your painting the car green? What's your reasoning behind this? It looked really nice in black.

Once again, lovely looking car, is going to be a beauty when its done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6153145
Share on other sites

As this car ways a little over 1000 kg the rb20 will pull it along just fine for now. I do want se traction after all :P I will prob buy a rb25 later and open it up then fill it with goodies to make it nice and strong. From what I understand the rb20 can take more punishment than the other rb engines in stock form.

the lime yellow or green as you call it is its original colour and it is rather rear in australia. I know its not every ones cup of tea but i like it.

Personaly I dont like black cars. I think it is a boring colour its way too hot especially in an old datsun with a huge trans tunnel and no air conditioning

and black is way to hard to keep clean

here are a few more pics of todays progress

I might even get the body painted next week ;D

IMG_1185.jpg

IMG_1184.jpg

IMG_1183.jpg

IMG_1182.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6153694
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Very Very nice project. My brother had one in that "Lime green" colour when I lived in the States. I still have a '70 240Z sitting in a garage at my mum's place in Seattle. One of these days (when I have a bigger garage) I'll bring it here and do something similar to you.

Can't wait to see some vids of this car running around a racetrack! Keep up the good work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6169038
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

awsome man,

I remeber seeing a s13 in japan with a 240 front on it looked fkn sick.

theres a 260 here in town i keep seeing driving around id love to buy and drop a 26 in it.

good luck with the project

49585469.png

irt355nsimg600x45010676.jpgUploaded with ImageShack.us

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6248986
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...