Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im going to JEM tomorrow to let them take care of the cai i bought (i dont have enuf time myself to hook it up and im kinda iffy on doing it also due to afms and o2 etc and idle problems maybe) anyways, after that iv also got a 5/16 MD iso thermal plenum spacer + oem cats + ES r1-t PWR catback + y pipe, just wondering what i should expect as to my dyno readings? (iv never done any before the mods were on) anyone with the same sorta stuff on there v have any readings so i can maybe compare to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342690-dyno/
Share on other sites

Might get to 170rwkw 175rwkw. Hard to tell without a before run.

Well i got 158 with fujitsubo exhaust and grounding kit

Then i put on fujitsubo y pipe, 1/2 motordyne spacer, z-tube, CIA, HFC and gained frickin 10rwkw.. pffft biggest let down ever, my car is 170rwkw, so pissed off. But it does now sound frickin amazing and turns heads all the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342690-dyno/#findComment-5528743
Share on other sites

Well i got 158 with fujitsubo exhaust and grounding kit

Then i put on fujitsubo y pipe, 1/2 motordyne spacer, z-tube, CIA, HFC and gained frickin 10rwkw.. pffft biggest let down ever, my car is 170rwkw, so pissed off. But it does now sound frickin amazing and turns heads all the time.

You need to get your ECU flashed, or better still, get a NIStune board. Your AFR will be off since you've got all those mods so you need to chip it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342690-dyno/#findComment-5528856
Share on other sites

You need to get your ECU flashed, or better still, get a NIStune board. Your AFR will be off since you've got all those mods so you need to chip it.

Its a bit lean, but what will a flash do? who does NIStune in QLD? chip torque wants like $1600 to do it when they have the software (they dont have it atm).... They said my headers are prob holding me back. Anyone else agree? how could i only get 10kw from all of that??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342690-dyno/#findComment-5528865
Share on other sites

Its a bit lean, but what will a flash do? who does NIStune in QLD? chip torque wants like $1600 to do it when they have the software (they dont have it atm).... They said my headers are prob holding me back. Anyone else agree? how could i only get 10kw from all of that??

Email these guys and ask about QLD:

http://www.nistune.com/contact.php

Also, I'm not sure how much HP it "adds" but I know resetting the ECU changes the "feel" of the car (there's another thread on ECU resetting so have a look). I reset mine just before a track day and it felt a lot quicker, like someone had lightened the car and the throttle response was much sharper. Try it out, it's free and U can do it yourself ;-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342690-dyno/#findComment-5529203
Share on other sites

Well i got 158 with fujitsubo exhaust and grounding kit

Then i put on fujitsubo y pipe, 1/2 motordyne spacer, z-tube, CIA, HFC and gained frickin 10rwkw.. pffft biggest let down ever, my car is 170rwkw, so pissed off. But it does now sound frickin amazing and turns heads all the time.

I pull 191rwkw with Plenum spacer, Pop charger, Z tube, Grounding kit, lightweight underdrive pulleys and Extrators. Got a new Y pipe but yet to Dyno.

I guess i would get 194rwkw.

Dyno tune next... but yeah they cost a bit for little power gain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342690-dyno/#findComment-5529949
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...