Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

marc when you're done spewing your paragraph upon paragraph of close minded opinions...

it was an RB20DE+T setup.

high compression motor. still free revving. still higher torque than DET..

so it still had the torque and only had a small conservative setup for high response and not-much lag...

boost came in at about 2500rpm.. but it still had the torque of the DE head...

it was actually a very fast motor. i would never go standard 20 det. that engine was different.

to summarize. you're dumb.

anyway.. back OT. so. gonna get a lexus GS?

rb20DE are still a pathetic motor. even with a turbo bolted on.

I think the worlds quickest drag Skyline is marginally quicker than the best Supra.

skyline may be a pubic hair faster than the supra (0.02 of a second or something like that), but engine wise there are faster 2jz's than rb's. fastest rb powered car i think is in the low 7's. fastest 2jz powered car is mid 6's.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rb20DE are still a pathetic motor. even with a turbo bolted on.

skyline may be a pubic hair faster than the supra (0.02 of a second or something like that), but engine wise there are faster 2jz's than rb's. fastest rb powered car i think is in the low 7's. fastest 2jz powered car is mid 6's.

Sure it's a bigger displacement, but what has the better racing pedigree?

The difference to cars like newish corollas/mazda3s etc is that they feel like the throttle positions are more biassed towards light throttle. I reckon 1/3 throttle in a corolla is really opening the throttle body at 50+%. Cause you barely breathe on the thing and it takes off, but push the pedal further down and bugger all happens.

Sure it's a bigger displacement, but what has the better racing pedigree?

that more comes down to which car has a better racing pedigree? it would be the GTR because it has the advantage of 4wd. engine wise the 2jz is a better engine in it's stock form. it will handle more power in it's stock form thanks to having forged internals.

The difference to cars like newish corollas/mazda3s etc is that they feel like the throttle positions are more biassed towards light throttle. I reckon 1/3 throttle in a corolla is really opening the throttle body at 50+%. Cause you barely breathe on the thing and it takes off, but push the pedal further down and bugger all happens.

+1

With my dad's Corolla 10% throttle is like 50% throttle, so it gives you this false "illusion" that the car has some grunt... mash the paddle all the way to floor & sh*t all happens...

like the time I was on my way to kalgoorlie & was overtaking some 3 trailer semis going about 90km/h, change lanes, floor it 100%, car downshifts to 2nd, eng rev jumps to 5500rpm & makes a horrible buzzing sound, look at my speedo I haven't even gone over 100km/h yet...

+1

With my dad's Corolla 10% throttle is like 50% throttle, so it gives you this false "illusion" that the car has some grunt... mash the paddle all the way to floor & sh*t all happens...

like the time I was on my way to kalgoorlie & was overtaking some 3 trailer semis going about 90km/h, change lanes, floor it 100%, car downshifts to 2nd, eng rev jumps to 5500rpm & makes a horrible buzzing sound, look at my speedo I haven't even gone over 100km/h yet...

it's an auto corolla, what do you expect? lol

Haha, I'm actually off to Sydney this week to pick up another SAU'ers M35....thanks for all your input though!

Good call. They are pure sex on wheels.

that more comes down to which car has a better racing pedigree? it would be the GTR because it has the advantage of 4wd. engine wise the 2jz is a better engine in it's stock form. it will handle more power in it's stock form thanks to having forged internals.

they do NOT have forged internals. I have seen a busted 2j piston and they are cast for sure. They will make 450rwkw before you start to get uncomfortable where as a 26 will be around 400rwkw before you start thinking rebuild. The 2j will likely last longer, after spending some time with the supra club up here we have learned that failures are every bit as common for them as they are for the people in our club. The 2j is more power productive and durable but it isnt by as much as people think.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...