Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

s1 rb25 with a walbro intank, nismo 740cc's, ems stinger map sensored.

can hear the fuel pump priming, starts fine, warms up fine. when warm, idle drops as per usual and still goes smoothly. then driving, you'll clutch in and it'll just die. it still gets on boost fine, doesnt hesitate or miss either. just when you slow down and clutch in it'll die then be a prick to start again. might take a minute or two to get started. it also happens if you just give it a stab of the throttle.

things i've checked/done

-new plugs

-swapped coils

-new fuel filter

-swapped fuel pressure regulator

i put a fuel pressure gauge in before the FPR, was reading at 175kpa at idle, dropped down a bit at ~3k revs and then died as soon as i let off the throttle.

so i replaced the fpr and it went to a fairly constant 200kpa on idle. still dies after throttle though. with the vac line disconnected from the fpr it drops to 180kpa.

doesnt appear as if there are any vac leaks either.

suggestions? dying fuel pump? leaky injector/injector jammed open?

Edited by bj0rn
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343023-fuel-problemstalling/
Share on other sites

If it's happening consitantly or under the same conditions all the time your best option it to connect it up to a heart monitor(the computer that reads all the magical stuff) and that should tell you whats wrong. Might be a crank angle sensor or something silly like that. Tried cleaning the afm? What fuel are you running it on?

yep same conditions. im not too sure how i'd go about connecting the ems to an obd. i dont have one i dont think i have access to one either.

its map sensored not afm.

its running on bp98 and always has been.

only started happening recently. has been tuned and was running just dandy for a few months up until the other day.

Hvae you had the injectors cleaned?

If you disconnect the vac line from the fpr at idle, pressure should go UP, not DOWN.

It's probably running too rich at idle - lean it off a bit (if you can - after all, you are using injectors that deliver twice what the standard injector delivers). Give it a bit of extra timing below idle rpm, eg if you have it set for 15 deg at 750 rpm idle, give it 17 at 500 and 19 at 400.

Is the "fuel cut on overrun" working, ie does the EMS shut down the injectors when the throttle snaps shut (like during gear changes)?

ok i've completely made an error, i hooked up the fuel pressure gauge in the wrong place. rookie mistake.

it reads a 40psi at idle & 44psi (stock is 36 / 44 i think) with the vacuum hose disconnected. however, it doesnt increase with revs like it should. the dampner after the pump must be a bit f**ked as well because its not a steady flow. the needle jumps around a fair bit.

i'll look for the vac line to the ecu and trace it. otherwise i'll call my tuner tomorrow and see if he can play with the ems.

will report back when i find out what it is.

any other ideas are more than welcome though

Edited by bj0rn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...