Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

s1 rb25 with a walbro intank, nismo 740cc's, ems stinger map sensored.

can hear the fuel pump priming, starts fine, warms up fine. when warm, idle drops as per usual and still goes smoothly. then driving, you'll clutch in and it'll just die. it still gets on boost fine, doesnt hesitate or miss either. just when you slow down and clutch in it'll die then be a prick to start again. might take a minute or two to get started. it also happens if you just give it a stab of the throttle.

things i've checked/done

-new plugs

-swapped coils

-new fuel filter

-swapped fuel pressure regulator

i put a fuel pressure gauge in before the FPR, was reading at 175kpa at idle, dropped down a bit at ~3k revs and then died as soon as i let off the throttle.

so i replaced the fpr and it went to a fairly constant 200kpa on idle. still dies after throttle though. with the vac line disconnected from the fpr it drops to 180kpa.

doesnt appear as if there are any vac leaks either.

suggestions? dying fuel pump? leaky injector/injector jammed open?

Edited by bj0rn
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343023-fuel-problemstalling/
Share on other sites

If it's happening consitantly or under the same conditions all the time your best option it to connect it up to a heart monitor(the computer that reads all the magical stuff) and that should tell you whats wrong. Might be a crank angle sensor or something silly like that. Tried cleaning the afm? What fuel are you running it on?

yep same conditions. im not too sure how i'd go about connecting the ems to an obd. i dont have one i dont think i have access to one either.

its map sensored not afm.

its running on bp98 and always has been.

only started happening recently. has been tuned and was running just dandy for a few months up until the other day.

Hvae you had the injectors cleaned?

If you disconnect the vac line from the fpr at idle, pressure should go UP, not DOWN.

It's probably running too rich at idle - lean it off a bit (if you can - after all, you are using injectors that deliver twice what the standard injector delivers). Give it a bit of extra timing below idle rpm, eg if you have it set for 15 deg at 750 rpm idle, give it 17 at 500 and 19 at 400.

Is the "fuel cut on overrun" working, ie does the EMS shut down the injectors when the throttle snaps shut (like during gear changes)?

ok i've completely made an error, i hooked up the fuel pressure gauge in the wrong place. rookie mistake.

it reads a 40psi at idle & 44psi (stock is 36 / 44 i think) with the vacuum hose disconnected. however, it doesnt increase with revs like it should. the dampner after the pump must be a bit f**ked as well because its not a steady flow. the needle jumps around a fair bit.

i'll look for the vac line to the ecu and trace it. otherwise i'll call my tuner tomorrow and see if he can play with the ems.

will report back when i find out what it is.

any other ideas are more than welcome though

Edited by bj0rn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...