Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey anyone know what size injectors and airflow meters are in the stagea when is standard.

I just got mine tuned with a power fc and its at 95% injector cycle on 14psi making 190kws?

Does that sound right. I would have thought the r33 GTR engine would put out more????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343151-stagea-autech/
Share on other sites

what are the AFR's? sounds pretty low to me.

mine makes 205awkw on 11psi.......and it's an RB25det :P

oh and in other helpful info, the GT-R injectors are 440cc and should be good for 300kw

Edited by SMOKEYC34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343151-stagea-autech/#findComment-5534036
Share on other sites

Just looks too low to me. Does it feel fast? My RB25DET with an R33 turbo highflowed by GCG was making 245awkw. Unless there is an obvious fault I would suspect poor tune. Do you want to PM me the name of the tuner/workshop? AFRs look conservatively rich but that's not a bad thing. Apart from fuel supply timing would be the obvious thing to look at. The difference between a good tuner and somone who just knows how to operate a PFC can be huge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343151-stagea-autech/#findComment-5535104
Share on other sites

It has conservative AFR's (perhaps a bit conservative) so some of the power is to be gained by leaning it back towards 12:1 but I suspect there is more to be gained in ignition timing to wake it up earlier.

RB26's respond well with adjustable cam gears so if you are getting it retuned then investing in some time on the dyno setting them up can reap some good rewards.

Unfortunately sitting here in our loungerooms we don't have all the info so there may be other issues hence the need to take the car to someone with a known history of great results with RB's and PowerFC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343151-stagea-autech/#findComment-5535110
Share on other sites

Hei good to hear you got an autech. Did you change your cam gears? My rig runs everything on standard exscept for the power fc, cam gears. everything else is standard. My signature says it all. Where are you located at?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343151-stagea-autech/#findComment-5535218
Share on other sites

Well i can think that maybe the car had alot more work/bolt ons and i wonder if the importer or the compliancing workshop threw some less than standard parts into it to sell it. I think i might try and get some bigger injecters, fuel pump and fuel pressure reg then maybe look at getting different airflow meters. what are your injectors running on your standard autech?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343151-stagea-autech/#findComment-5535416
Share on other sites

Shouldnt be. You can take a look at the engine compartment and look at the nuts and bolts wheter they have been opened before. As for the injectors and the fuel system all is standard. If i remembered correctly the injecors are running close to max.

Here is the thing. For my rig parts that i ave changed for increase peformance. Drop in replacement k&n filter, cam gears in/out, 3" exhaust system, power Fc and that was it. I got 236kw @all wheels. I was running mobil fuel when tuned. Everything else is standard, fuel system, engine, boost controller, clutch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343151-stagea-autech/#findComment-5535469
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...