Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • chaos

    7164

  • Ska

    5791

  • BelGarion

    3645

  • Nexus9

    3590

Top Posters In This Topic

and basically if i have air turned on so it shoots at the feet - its fine

if i have the air shooting at the face and feet - its fine

however if i have the air shooting just at the face it makes a clicking noise?

whats the deal there?

There is a vent in the heater box.. which is below the entire dash. Have a look at my "how to pull entire dash apart" and "how to replace heater core" to see how to fix it and how it all works. Your actuator for the vent down the bottom inside the box is broken. Thats what the clicking is. I got them off my old box if you like sitting around - $30 and yours.

Zoix: same problem.. just replace the little black actuator (motor) adn you're fine.. its just getting to the bitch which is the problem..

Hey Matty.. you got a place lined up for your paintwork? Do they want to do a skyline group discount?? ;) I want mine done in next 2-3 weeks.

Hey Matty.. you got a place lined up for your paintwork? Do they want to do a skyline group discount?? ;) I want mine done in next 2-3 weeks.

G'Man

A couple of the 'parts' DONT need painting hehehehe :)

When I find a front bar im probably taking it down to this place in southport, they do good work... I'l let you know and maybe we can get some $$$ discounted... Keen?

definitely.. I am now working at Umart with Chris / Nexus9 at southport.. so will be down here a few days each week, and that will be just around the corner.

I just need to pick up my 400R skirts (next few days), then its ready to go to a paint shop.

cool predator and nexus9 work at umart. Me and my cuz buy heaps of pc parts from there, Hes looking at spending about 1.5k worth of shit in the next week or so at your store, can ya give us a discount ;)

we also goto gamedude the prices are awesome but the service sucks ass and they are a pain in the ass about returns so we only deal with umart now.

Well I just peddled my a$$ to GE finance and got $2k more to play with to get the car fixed. Talked to Gav's and he said be very very wary of buying secondhand lower control arms because the brushes are usually stuffed, but new ones he said cost ~$400 from Japan. But I also know Gav does not like to do things half assed, and likes to have everything done properly with good parts, but I dunno, I'd rather have it fixed at gav's but know it will cost a huge amount of mula, but I will have the piece of mind that it is done right.

Plus the bit that comes out of the rack, (tie rod I think??) is bent to the buggery and dont know if the castor rod is bent either, also there is a bit that i am sure looks bent, little thingy bobby, (gotta love my technical talk, hope you get the idea that i really dont know what i am talking about :D)

So here is the delma, do I:

1. Try to go the cheap option, try to get all the parts i _think_ are broken and replace them using the time generously offered by other SAU members, or

2. Take is to Gav's have him replace everything that is broke, plus everything that probably doesnt need immediate replacing, but will in the near future?

What would you do?

Yeah but what happens if we missed something that needs fixing and it ends up breaking and having to go to gav's because i didnt take it there in the first place?

Might just take it there, I'd rather know she's all good rather than wondering if we missed something, or who knows.

I suppose the good thing about gavin is he also knows about suspension parts and the like. So you won't be taking it to a mechanic that just "thinks" he knows what he's doing.

he's told me numerous times that if there's anything with suspension that needs doing to take it to him.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...