Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So what ill need to do would be to change the Gtst resistor pack to the GTR one? or is dont gtst have a resistor pack as such?

thanks Roy much apreciatted!

Get your hands on an RB20DET wiring diagram, you will find that the wiring diagram for the R32 RB20DET and RB26DETT are on the same diagram (well they are on mine) which helps spot the differences.

The RB20DET does not have a resistor pack, the GTR does. Essentially you need to cut into the power wire that feeds all the injetors, off the firewall it runs on top of the fuel rail branching off where there are injectors. So before it branches off to feed a voltage to any injectors you need to cut it and solder it to the 7th wire on the resistor pack. Then from the resistor pack you have 6 wires that then run to the +ve spade on the injectors. So essentailly you are wiring the resistor pack in series before the injectors, just as std on a GTR.

I should have taken photos... :Oops:

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi jnr32r, Power FC requires the standard impedance injectors, which on an R32 GTST RB20DET are 12-14 ohms (generally called high impedance). R32 GTR RB26DETT have low impedance injectors, around 3-5 ohms. If you use low impedance injectors then the PFC will get too much current drain and overheat.

Hope that helps

I am using 13B non turbo injectors which are either 420cc or 460cc Lol damn memory! Anyway I got them from a fella from nissansilvia.com for $35 each. They fit straight in, the last 4 digits are 1350 from memory??? Anyway I also, during the conversion got new injector plugs, which are similar to the stock ones except the lug is in the centre and not offset. They also have the spring you push down to unplug them vs the spring clip that gets flicked off and lost. I am running a microtech LTX12 (a 180sx RB20DET) and haven't got the car back yet so I cannot comment on the further.

do you happen to have pics of the mod'd clip to fit the 13b injectors? Thanks

Im not using a Power Fc but am using the GTR injectors & resistor pack on RB20 ECU.

So std RB20 ECU requires high impedence injectors to limit the current to the ecu...so can use:

- high impedence injectors and standard ECU OR

- low impedence with resistor pack, and std ECU. As impedence of (low impedence injector + resistor pack) equated to using high impedence injectors, the ECU doesnt know any better.

Hi jnr32r, Power FC requires the standard impedance injectors, which on an R32 GTST RB20DET are 12-14 ohms (generally called high impedance).  R32 GTR RB26DETT have low impedance injectors, around 3-5 ohms.  If you use low impedance injectors then the PFC will get too much current drain and overheat.

Hope that helps

Will that still happen even if you have a resistor pack, from RB26?

well, injectors are on way :D

Once I have got hold of the management side of things, they will be going in and then I guess we'll see how they work

Chris

  • 6 months later...
Hi jnr32r, Power FC requires the standard impedance injectors, which on an R32 GTST RB20DET are 12-14 ohms (generally called high impedance).  R32 GTR RB26DETT have low impedance injectors, around 3-5 ohms.  If you use low impedance injectors then the PFC will get too much current drain and overheat.

Hope that helps

I hope this is'nt true because I have a PFC and GTR injectors/resisters are going in this weekend

Thanks Champ. Don't kill yourself getting the work finished this weekend. I'm currently looking around for some injectors so i can be safe running higher boost => more power on the straights at PI and Sandown :P

I have'nt put them in yet coz I was finding out if they would work with the PFC.After reading SK post it put me off trying it coz I did'nt want to do damage to the ECU.

Roy you'll be the first to know how it goes after I finish that beer.

Chris32 I'll take pics as I go.Hopefully this weekend I'll do it all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...