Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Jumped in the car the other day and the clutch felt a lot different... I could get into gears 1-5 but not reverse... The next day i couldnt get into any gear!

I have had a look at the fluid levels and they are full no leaking? I had a similiar issue last year where the slave cylinder had shat itself and there was fluid leaking from underneath...

Could it be the slave cylinder again? I only had it replaced not long ago and the car does not get driven much its mainly a weekender...

Advice is appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343600-r32-gts-t-clutch-problem/
Share on other sites

Does the clutch feel very light when u push it down?

If so maybe you've broken the bracket up the top of the clutch pedal?

Happened to me maybe 3 weeks ago, clutch was fine and then one day It was feeling really light and I couldn't get it into gear

First off,,,get under the car,,,jacks and stands properly possitioned and pull back the outer boot off the slave cylinder,,,if there is fluid leaking then you know it's the slave,,,.Then start working your forward.

Cheers

Neil.

Hi Guys,

The friction point is much lower then it should be.... And it is a bit crunchy i need to really push the gears in.... There is nothing leaking from the outside or the cabin and i have had a look under the car to check the slave cylinder which seems to be operating fine...

I managed to crunch it into gears whilst running to drive it down the road to a mechanics... He says his"educational" guess is that the master cylinder has shat itself.... I dont want to replace this and find out its not the problem.... Has anyone got any ideas??

And whats the part number for the master cylinder and how much will it set me back

Regards

Ok had my brother in laws mate come past who got under the pedals with a shifter and a set of tweasers and fixed it in under 5 minutes?? I could not really get a word out of him my arabic is not good but i could understand 1 thing he said which was your clutch is halfway... So halfway out i take it?

The friction point is still pretty low and i find it better now as i didnt like it so high up... But how long will i have until it completely goes?

Think i should start looking for a replacement

There's noway anyone on here can tell u how long u have before ur clutch goes because none of us have seen ur car.. If I was u I would take it to a work shop and tell them everything u know... If u can't fiqure it out they should beable too.

If u live in nsw in the western suburbs I can pm u a great workshop to go too, I take my car there for everything.

Chibs, if it went from "perfectly normal" to "pick up very low and broken" in a space of getting in and out, then you have either a leaking hydraulic system/broken pivots etc OR the clutch pedal has broken.

If you're not loosing fluid, then I'd say you've broken the pivot or the clutch pedal bracket.

Since adjusting it helped, I'd say you've broken the clutch pedal bracket.

Which means get it fixed.

Climb under the dash upside down, look at the clutch pedal where it mounts in up high, if as you press it the bracket moves, you've snapped the bracket.

Pull the dash out, reweld the bracket.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replys appreciate them.... Yes i do live in the west but i have a hard time trusting mechanics because of the **** they charge you with...

If this workshop you talk about are honest people it would be good to head down there to see what they have to say...

Hi Matt thanks for that i will get under there tonight with a torch and have a look at what you said... Yeah adjusting it did help and it seems to be fine at the moment but friction point is a lot lower then it used to be..

Cheers!

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replys appreciate them.... Yes i do live in the west but i have a hard time trusting mechanics because of the **** they charge you with...

If this workshop you talk about are honest people it would be good to head down there to see what they have to say...

Hi Matt thanks for that i will get under there tonight with a torch and have a look at what you said... Yeah adjusting it did help and it seems to be fine at the moment but friction point is a lot lower then it used to be..

Cheers!

It sounds extremely likely you've broken the clutch pedal bracket then.

When I snapped mine the friction point was basically at the floor.

Hi Guys,

Jumped in the car the other day and the clutch felt a lot different... I could get into gears 1-5 but not reverse... The next day i couldnt get into any gear!

I have had a look at the fluid levels and they are full no leaking? I had a similiar issue last year where the slave cylinder had shat itself and there was fluid leaking from underneath...

Could it be the slave cylinder again? I only had it replaced not long ago and the car does not get driven much its mainly a weekender...

Advice is appreciated!

hey chibs,

might sound silly of me to ask, but how old is the clutch???

personally i reckon u need a new one, change the slave and at the same time they aint that expensive......u WILL appreciate it.

sounds like the same symptoms i had 6 months ago, i finally cracked it not knowing how to fix it, thought the clutch aint that old (i put it in myself bout two years before) took the car to louis......clutch was f**ked.....new one, a week later the old slave went. new slave perfecto till some f**ker stole it all again

cheers

mick

Edited by mii11x

Chibs honestly u can trust the guy I go to, I've known him for over 5years and he's deadset a honest bloke.. He will look after you. Plus I'm almost 100% sure that the problem with ur car is the clutch pedal itself.

As I said, if u want pm me and I'll give u the details.

I bought the car last year October from a jap dealer on parra road... I would say the clutch is pretty old dont know exactly how many years though.. I changed the slave cylinder in it early this year

I will take it to teh workshop matty is talking about in above post and see what they think.... I will most likely replace the clutch if it comes to it.. Thanks guys!

Still have not had the chance to get under and look at the pedal myself been held up at work for the past few nights...

Alright guys it turns out it was my master cylinder !!! Where can i find one for my R32? Anyone know of a place..?

Apparently its "Special" because it has a bleeder on the top

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=277&page=1

Alright guys it turns out it was my master cylinder !!! Where can i find one for my R32? Anyone know of a place..?

Apparently its "Special" because it has a bleeder on the top

most nissan dealers should be able to get you one these days mate, campbelltown nissan on mill road is where i go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...