Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They CAN detect your radar detector

They WILL confiscate it

They WILL fine you ($913 back in 1995)

Just about any car made since 2000 which has a trip computer will have a feature for a speed alert. Heck, some cars even have a max speed setting so you can't go any faster unless you turn it off.

But go right ahead. Buy one and have some fun.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Agreed ;)

Might as well have posted up a question asking where you can get some good crack or where the drags will be on Friday night. If you want to know specific information about them, maybe ask in the WA forums or do some searching on American car forums. They tend to know alot about the technical side of things, i.e. what types of radar they detect and what they can be detected by.

Be warned though, they have radar detector detectors nowadays...and the thing will turn you into a paranoid individual. Every service station you pass will have it's automatic doors set off the green lights which isn't so different to the reaction from someone else being targeted with police radar. It's when the oh-shit meter turns red that you have a proper lock on...enter thoughts about throwing the thing out the window. Ahhh memories :D

actually its not. radar detectors are perfectly legal to buy and sell however use on victorian roads is illegal. yes they do have radar detector detectors however that model im looking at is very difficult to detect on the most sensitive settings.

i cant say never but i rarely speed through intersections not only for the fact that a lot have cameras that are very sensitive, it's also dangerous. far too often i have had to avoid cars doing right turns too early. so, i don't have any problems with fixed cameras.

the fines and now to think of it, it was only 2, have been from mobile cameras setup. which do use radar and do fine people for 3-10kph over.

most radar detectors have city settings to avoid false alerts from other devices that use radar.

oh well, dead topic is dead. ill look for more info else where.

Edited by Peter89
They CAN detect your radar detector

They WILL confiscate it

They WILL fine you ($913 back in 1995)

Just about any car made since 2000 which has a trip computer will have a feature for a speed alert. Heck, some cars even have a max speed setting so you can't go any faster unless you turn it off.

But go right ahead. Buy one and have some fun.

s14s have no such features.

Would these devices work for all types of radars? How do they react to mobile speed cameras ?

they work for all bands used by police forces. mobile speed cameras, that are setup and fixed for the entire day use radar and are fully automatic.

police also setup on the side of the road with lasers and have another car later down the road they call to pull you over or they do it themselves.

Edited by Peter89
police also setup on the side of the road with lasers and have another car later down the road they call to pull you over or they do it themselves.

Avoiding these technique is of interest, are there an units which are effective against LIDAR whilst remaining electronically sealed ?

Avoiding these technique is of interest, are there an units which are effective against LIDAR whilst remaining electronically sealed ?

the only way to stop such laser readings is with laser jamming devices however it will be somewhat obvious when your car can't be read.

detection is easier however you must react within a second otherwise its too late.

the only way to stop such laser readings is with laser jamming devices however it will be somewhat obvious when your car can't be read.

detection is easier however you must react within a second otherwise its too late.

Tell me more... and not in the gay 'grease' way :D LOL

http://www.delonixradar.com.au/

scroll down to the map and find your state.

far to much for me to be reading rite now.

but I have somewhere seen radar detectors which claim to be legal in victoria as they provide another function such as reverse parking.

I'v wanted to try laser veil. although I'm not sure of it's legality as it tints headlights.

it blocks the reading at a distance til you get close giving you time to slow down if you spot them.

I like laser jammers unsure of how legal they are. one with an alarm, as soon as you slow down turn it off.

and always drive with my tomtom with the latest trapsters poi. seems to give some false reading perhaps it's just that fixed cameras lately have been taking on different shapes to be more discreet and can't even be spotted a lot of the time.

I've got a Whistler Pro78 and it's great, haven't had a fine of any sort since I got it ~4yrs ago. It also gives you a much better awareness of what's happening on the road, especially as more and more emergency vehicles and road workers join the Safety Warning System programme.

There are only 2 models you should choose for OZ. They are the Beltronics STi-R (BEL STiR) and Escort Passport 9500ci Remote Radar Detectors.

Both units work very well are undetectable. I know people who use them and have saved them many times.

The LIDAR Jammers also work very well, although you need to ensure the heads are located near the numberplate and are difficult to see.

Prepare to spend upwards of $2500 for a good setup. The Veil stuff is very noticable and only effective against LIDAR (Laser).

As others have said, the best way to avoid fines is not to speed, but a RD and jammer also helps.

As far as false alarms is conserned with the GPS enabled RD's they learn the false spots. Also the NSW police have now switched to Ka band for their mobile units, so falsing is almost a thing of the past, although the new active cruise control in high end cars causes some falsing.

As for being able to be detected, a RD can only be detected if it is switched on. You turn it off and no RDD will detect it. Also there are only 3 RDD units in NSW (last i heard), and they are generally in country areas for truck RD enforcement.

There is so much BS and scare tactics in regards to RD usage. Yes it is a $1000 fine and 9 points, but the chances of getting caught is very slim. You will find more people run them than you might think.

trapster is great for tom tom updates. or too perhaps check the route your taking.

I wouldn't drive around with it turned on. unless you have an optus unlimited data plan.

next time your bill comes in you will be in for a shock.

so are lidar lasers still in use?

unless you are constantly driving over 140 or always have a spare few thousand readily available its not worth your while.

the bad part about it is people with them keep trying to reach new top speeds.

I just know I'd be addicted to it..

My friend owns a stage 3 Audi S4. He installed a radar and laser detector. When I sit in his car all I hear is a voice warning 'K-band!' and he slows down. Don't know how it works for him but he said its saved him enough within a year to have justified the purchase of the unit. I'll have to get one I think for my GTR. I think he uses beltronics. Or was it something called spectre? Its undetectable.  

trapster is great for tom tom updates. or too perhaps check the route your taking.

I wouldn't drive around with it turned on. unless you have an optus unlimited data plan.

next time your bill comes in you will be in for a shock.

so are lidar lasers still in use?

unless you are constantly driving over 140 or always have a spare few thousand readily available its not worth your while.

the bad part about it is people with them keep trying to reach new top speeds.

I just know I'd be addicted to it..

You are telling tales about the data and trapster.

I have only 500 MB a month on my iphone through TPG and if you use it daily then at most you will download about 10 MB a day. It does drain the battery quickly though so you should have a car charger.

Besides you should have 'consume apps" that show you how much data you have used up.

I drive with both my tom tom and now trapster on my iphone 4 and trapster is much more accurate regarding fixed cameras too.

You are telling tales about the data and trapster.

I have only 500 MB a month on my iphone through TPG and if you use it daily then at most you will download about 10 MB a day. It does drain the battery quickly though so you should have a car charger.

Besides you should have 'consume apps" that show you how much data you have used up.

I drive with both my tom tom and now trapster on my iphone 4 and trapster is much more accurate regarding fixed cameras too.

yeah i agree with the data usage. it isn't that much. also agree with having a data usage app.

i've used trapster on my phone and it's good. it updates so if someone goes past one a few mins before you and logs it then it will tell you about it. you can put the locations onto a normal GPS as well, but i don't think it gives the spoken warning, just a "ding ding" and it will say the reason for the warning in text on the screen. i have fixed speed cameras and redlight cameras already in my gps with spoken warnings that i downloaded of another site. haven't gotten around to putting the trapster ones on though.

as for getting done for 3km/h over, if you have the correct profile tyres on your car, to get done for doing 3km/h over in a 60 zone, you realistically need to be doing about 65 by the speedo. that's a few needle widths over the line. speedos generally over read by a few kmh, so you have to be doing more than 3kmh faster on the speedo to get caught. in the case of the missus car, in a 100km/h zone, 108kmh is about how fast i'd have to be going on the speedo to get booked, which is more than a little slight speed error from paying attention to the road and not the speed.

um so can i get this wonderful trapster thing on my tomtom? no iphone and cant see it on the nokia apps store which is a bit crappy i must admit, cant afford a 2k plus radar avoider yet but sounds too good to be true. most of the speed traps i have seen..

ie. lidar pointing up the hill at the mittagong big dipper on the hume, not much u could do until it was too late. though of course pretty dumb to be speeding through there anyway, got back under just in time last two trips :P

um so can i get this wonderful trapster thing on my tomtom? no iphone and cant see it on the nokia apps store which is a bit crappy i must admit, cant afford a 2k plus radar avoider yet but sounds too good to be true. most of the speed traps i have seen..

ie. lidar pointing up the hill at the mittagong big dipper on the hume, not much u could do until it was too late. though of course pretty dumb to be speeding through there anyway, got back under just in time last two trips :P

should be able to yeah. only thing with having it on a GPS unit is that you need to constantly update it so it gets the latest spots the mobile units are sitting at, so you can still get done if they are at a location that isn't on your list. but that said, if it is a brand new spot and you are the first to go through there with trapster then you will still get done, as it isn't a radar detector, simply uses gps maps and remembers the locations of them.

as for spending $1000 or more on a detector, i don't see the point really. unless you are a habitual speeder who is constantly getting booked then you are spending a lot of money to save a small amount. i've been booked twice in 11 years, with the fines totaling $375 (both of those on my p's). how many 3-10km over fines would it have to save you from to pay for itself? quite a few. a few years worth for most people.

should be able to yeah. only thing with having it on a GPS unit is that you need to constantly update it so it gets the latest spots the mobile units are sitting at, so you can still get done if they are at a location that isn't on your list. but that said, if it is a brand new spot and you are the first to go through there with trapster then you will still get done, as it isn't a radar detector, simply uses gps maps and remembers the locations of them.

as for spending $1000 or more on a detector, i don't see the point really. unless you are a habitual speeder who is constantly getting booked then you are spending a lot of money to save a small amount. i've been booked twice in 11 years, with the fines totaling $375 (both of those on my p's). how many 3-10km over fines would it have to save you from to pay for itself? quite a few. a few years worth for most people.

cool, so where do i go to add it to the tomtom? cant see anything on the tomtom website and too lazy right now to do any proper googling :)

as for the detector, if i had the money i would get one. dont get fines often either and long since stopped speeding around built up areas (well..cept for the odd 2am run to maccas), its usually miles from anywhere on the odd roadtrip that i get stung. radar thingy would be awesome for that but im still skeptical they work on a well hidden highway rozzer behind a tree with a laser gun.

radar units in territories is probably more what they work on. .?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...