Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to know if removing lights are as simple as it should be or if i have to remove the front bar in the process, and also i am changing from the aus lights to the xenon lights just want to know if it a simple cut and splice or far more complicated process.

Any help would be great

Thanks

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344485-help-removing-headlights/
Share on other sites

no idea on the front bar/light removal. would be interested to know tho!

as for straight swap, do you have the ballasts for the xenon globes? should just have to plug the loom into those.

its easy to remove the lights, also easy to put in Xenon kit. if you want specific pics i can get them to you tomorrow.

but the basics are: Right side, remove battery so you can get to the bolts better, then you can see it is bolted on at the back by 2 bolts i think, one pretty low and the other one middle height, (both are nuts)

also your headlights are a 3 piece setup. your main headlight connects to a support connector which then connects to your high beams.

the support connector is connected on the top and side of your headlight and the back of the radiator support, undo just your headlight (top and side of your headlight)

then you can pull out your headlight and the wires. thats your right side done

now left light, same thing basically but to get it undone, you have to basically undo the 2 bolts on the top of your radiator bar holding in the black can, there is a headlight screw right behind it.

also there is another screw bottom right of the headlight aswell (if your standing in front of it). then just follow the other steps like the other headlight. remove air box if you want more space.

to put in the xenon kit, its pretty easy. but for that i gotta know if its the original xenon kit thats attatched to the lights or if its an after market one

cheers

Jean

p.s you dont need to remove of front bar

Edited by Bronx
p.s you dont need to remove of front bar

Series 1 or 2?

I managed to get one head light out but really should have taken the front bar off (fair bit of bending of plastic stuff lol), it was such a mission I cracked the shits and gave up (after putting the headlight back in).

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
×
×
  • Create New...