Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to know if removing lights are as simple as it should be or if i have to remove the front bar in the process, and also i am changing from the aus lights to the xenon lights just want to know if it a simple cut and splice or far more complicated process.

Any help would be great

Thanks

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344485-help-removing-headlights/
Share on other sites

no idea on the front bar/light removal. would be interested to know tho!

as for straight swap, do you have the ballasts for the xenon globes? should just have to plug the loom into those.

its easy to remove the lights, also easy to put in Xenon kit. if you want specific pics i can get them to you tomorrow.

but the basics are: Right side, remove battery so you can get to the bolts better, then you can see it is bolted on at the back by 2 bolts i think, one pretty low and the other one middle height, (both are nuts)

also your headlights are a 3 piece setup. your main headlight connects to a support connector which then connects to your high beams.

the support connector is connected on the top and side of your headlight and the back of the radiator support, undo just your headlight (top and side of your headlight)

then you can pull out your headlight and the wires. thats your right side done

now left light, same thing basically but to get it undone, you have to basically undo the 2 bolts on the top of your radiator bar holding in the black can, there is a headlight screw right behind it.

also there is another screw bottom right of the headlight aswell (if your standing in front of it). then just follow the other steps like the other headlight. remove air box if you want more space.

to put in the xenon kit, its pretty easy. but for that i gotta know if its the original xenon kit thats attatched to the lights or if its an after market one

cheers

Jean

p.s you dont need to remove of front bar

Edited by Bronx
p.s you dont need to remove of front bar

Series 1 or 2?

I managed to get one head light out but really should have taken the front bar off (fair bit of bending of plastic stuff lol), it was such a mission I cracked the shits and gave up (after putting the headlight back in).

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...