Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys im in a bit of trouble at the moment.. i've got a nissan skyline r32 gts-t 1992 model manual.. bought the car recently .. everything is ok had some issues to fix... mine major problem is now keeping traction while launching off the line.. not to mention on the wet.. aswell i have a standard ecu computer.. i have been looking for a apexi power fc new/second hand very hard to find one .. i dont knw where to look anymore.. any suggestions on what is out there from ecu that i will be able to use? since im new to "skyline driver" from wrx :-) .... cheers guys ..

3" dr.drift exhaust

apexi pod filter

manual boost controller

gtr injectors -fuel pump

17" wheels deep dish

garret gt 35/40 turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344556-nissan-skyline-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

that's not a problem...go pay a visit to ur local garden centre and purchase a whole heap of crushed rock or sand and place it in ur boot. What the f**k is whole heap of sand or crushed rock is going to help i hear u ask.....well let me put it to u simple as simple as can be as simple as simple ABC simple, all that sand/rock u've put in ur boot will act as weight on ur rear wheels so when u go try doing 3.5 4000 rpm launch u will have minimum to nothing wheel spin. Tada problem solved.

Lol settle petals. Yup gts-t have the same power as your WRX but with only two wheels being driven. Obviously all things equal this means off the line the gts-t is slower or more likely to lose grip.

Nistune ECU dont waste your time chasing a powerFC

+1 heard they are good for 32 gtsts...

also like everyone said, easy on your right foot....and make sure you have decent tyres....since its a rear wheel drive, its meant to loos traction....and with extra mods, you will need to get fatter tyres/rims and very grippy tyres to keep you in traction... :(

where can i get the Nistune ECU ..? and what are they worth? and are they tuneable?

They allow your stock ECU to be tuned. Far better than a standalone aftermarket ECU in a daily driven car as it'll retain your good cold start and good idle.

Sam @ Dr Drift: http://drdrift.com.au/contact.php

Trent @ Chequered Tuning: http://www.chequeredtuning.com/new/?q=node/21

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...