Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Here's the issue:

- Car runs completely normal (boosts well, idles well, etc) for the first 15 minutes or so of driving.

- After about 15 minutes when the car becomes warm, idle becomes very rough, revs start bouncing from 100rpm to 1500 rpm.

- Continue driving under these conditions results in engine pulling back timing, nearly complete loss of power and almost undrivable (although turbo still spools per am boost gauge).

I've had this problem for weeks now and still unable to solve. I attempted the following to fix the issue: cleaned AFM, cleaned AAC valve, checked for vacuum leaks, but problem remains. I'm now thinking it could be a sensor issue as I've tried the above and failed to fix the problem. Since the car drives 100% when cold, and starts getting these symptoms when warm.. I was thinking a temp sensor playing up? But I don't have much knowledge in that department and need your help!

Has anyone also run into this problem before or to shed me some light? Also what other possible problems may occur under the conditions described above?

The only modifications done to the car are 3" cat back exhaust, pod filter, Platinum spark plugs, and spitfire coilpacks.

Thanks in Adv.

Forgot to add: Car in question is a 1997 r33 Gts-t, rb25det

Edited by nsdq

i had very similar issues, get a hold of a consult cable and see what the car is doing. check here for the thread i asked some questions on. hopefully it helps.

my car is now running perfect.

A shagged O2 sensor won't do that, just change your mix on cruising.

I can't really suggest anything else though, but I am curious to see how this goes.

Rene thanks for the link, I will have a read up on it.

I'm going to take it to a garage this weekend and run a diagnostic. Don't know when I'm going to get the consult cable if I order one.

Will post up what I find this wkend.

I taped up my splitfire coilpacks a few days ago (where the common hairline crack problems occur) and took the car out for a drive just then. Remained problem free for the longest time for weeks (About 30-40mins). After that however, right after I fanged it to 6500 a few times, idle started to bounce as initially described. I continued driving and car became very jerky, sudden power on, complete power off when my foot remains static on the gas.

This increasingly seems like a coilpack issue - what you guys reckon? Although from what I described, it doesn't make sense if it was just one knacked coilpack. Feels more like at least 3 - 4 stops working. If I take it to a garage (which I'm planning to this wkend) it's going to be difficult to fix as most times the car runs fine. Thoughts?

I would start with the smaller stuff first (if you havent already). coilpacks fixed my missfiring at high rpm, but didnt fix my idle problem. try things like fuel filter, bad earths, vacuum leak, clean the aac valve, then adjust the iac valve etc. with me (may not be the same for you) my tps was shy of the 0.4V. i adjusted that then my idle was racing, so then i adjusted the iac valve, which stopped the timing going nuts. it is just about perfect (will be making minor adjustments this weekend to get perfect). if all this fails i would then go the coil pack route, as they are not cheap. it might be worth borrowing some from someone in your area just to make sure its the coils though. if you dont want to spend an arm and a leg on splitfires, theres a supplier over here which sells good coils. with your guys dollar being so strong at the moment it may work out super cheap. let me know??

Hi all,

Here's the issue:

- Car runs completely normal (boosts well, idles well, etc) for the first 15 minutes or so of driving.

- After about 15 minutes when the car becomes warm, idle becomes very rough, revs start bouncing from 100rpm to 1500 rpm.

- Continue driving under these conditions results in engine pulling back timing, nearly complete loss of power and almost undrivable (although turbo still spools per am boost gauge).

I've had this problem for weeks now and still unable to solve. I attempted the following to fix the issue: cleaned AFM, cleaned AAC valve, checked for vacuum leaks, but problem remains. I'm now thinking it could be a sensor issue as I've tried the above and failed to fix the problem. Since the car drives 100% when cold, and starts getting these symptoms when warm.. I was thinking a temp sensor playing up? But I don't have much knowledge in that department and need your help!

Has anyone also run into this problem before or to shed me some light? Also what other possible problems may occur under the conditions described above?

The only modifications done to the car are 3" cat back exhaust, pod filter, Platinum spark plugs, and spitfire coilpacks.

Thanks in Adv.

Forgot to add: Car in question is a 1997 r33 Gts-t, rb25det

looking at your symptoms it could be any thing related to below.

Idel controler system

Air Fuel Ratio

Ignition system or engine compression

i was fix same thing b4. i was ACC valve. it was falty. [solonoid it self]

just symply disconect the aac valve and see any different

disconect the pressure regulater vacume and see any different

check your ign timing.

if you are in sydney near parramatta i can help you to sort this thing. if you like PM me.

i won't charge you

yeah check the things with consult mentioned in other thread, e.g. with it cold idle (good) and then warm idle (when bad): AAC, TPS, Closed Throttle Switch, Coolant Temp, Ignition Timing, RPM.

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but did you ever discover what was causing the problem?

I had similar problems to you and it turned out to be the Cam Angle Sensor (CAS). Picked up a 2nd hand one off ebay for $150, brand new they're more like $650. It can be a bit of a risk getting a 2nd hand one, but I bought mine off a parts place who said I had a 7-day DOA warranty.

It's pretty easy to fit, just make sure you line up the markings with the old one so you don't stuff up your timing. I did it myself and managed to get the timing spot on, made a HUGE difference to how the car drives.

Unfortunately mine is still pulling some timing when the water temp reaches 75C but I believe it is unrelated, probably the knock sensors or something. Just about to clean the AAC valve - will let you know if that makes any diff!

Edited by benro2

I don't see how the car could be tuned with a dodgy CAS. It's too random to be able to tune "around" it. It's not like it just pulls out a set amount of timing, it's all over the place.

I also cleaned my AAC valve on the weekend and it didn't fix my timing issue (which I was 99% sure about) but it has improved the idle somewhat. Didn't work miracles like some people have said, but maybe mine wasn't that dirty to begin with. I also may not have cleaned it as well as I could, but I did give it a damn good clean with carby cleaner and a LOT of carbon came out! I did notice that the car starts a lot easier now too!

Worth giving it a go if you haven't already. From what you've said it's almost definitely the CAS but can't hurt to eliminate all possibilities.

Sounds like AFM..pull off the afm, unscrew the 4 screws around the plug fitting. Once open, spray contact cleaner or tb/c cleaner in it..

Almost sounds like what my car was doing. I went through everything until I got my cable from ecutalk...turned out it was the maf sensor (afm) up to shiz..cleaned out all the gunk and so far my cars runnin sweet..

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...