Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have owned my N/A R34 4 door for approximately 11 months now and in the past 1 month I have seen a significant change in how my car is running.

I have noticed that when completely letting go of my accelerator on a flat road, the car begins to brake quite quickly without any coasting sensation you would expect.

Even when going down a hill, (for those of you on the north shore in Sydney, the big dipper on the F3 near Mount Colah) I need to have my foot on the accelerator to keep it from dropping below 110km/h (whilst having momentum GOING DOWN A STEEP HILL)

The only modifications which have been made over this time period (and or 2 months before noticing a problem) was the installation of a 2.5" catback exhaust, and replacement of coilpacks and spark plugs.

It is obviously a very uncomfortable feeling and uneconomic when my foot needs to be left on the accelerator when otherwise, I could simply have the foot off and be coasting. In the meantime I have been shifting to neutral (I should have noted the transmission is tiptronic) to attempt to save fuel.

The uncomfortable and annoying "self-braking-problem" seems to be due to the revs not dropping instantly when taking the foot off my accelerator, it will instead drop from whatever revs i was on to 2k slowly creep down from 2k - 1.1k and feel asif a great load is on the gear. When changing to neutral immediately after letting off the accelerator, the revs drop to ~1.1k, 1k and obviously not being in gear, I can coast comfortably.

the only reason I am posting is because I know that my car was performing differently with the ability to simply coast, without going from 60km-40km in 2 seconds on flat road and momentum.

I would REALLY appreciate any insight or help into what the problem may be!

lack of backpressure to the engine?

limp mode for some reason?

Its actually funny that you mention that.

I'm not exactly sure what a seized calliper entails however..

my front left wheel squeeks about twice per rotation WITHOUT any brakes applied, this may be the problem area, this could be some point of contact?

Once i begin to brake the squeak dissapears (I assume its not a brake pad problem since squeeling you hear from the wheelswould occur WHILST braking, but this isn't the case for me)

Other unique feelings I have when lightly pressing my brake say at 60km/h is a subtle back and forth motion, maybe indicating that the brakes are grabbing/letting go, grabbing/letting go (case of warped disc brakes?) Once I apply more pressure to the brake the pads come into complete contact with the disc and the feeling of braking is smooth. I have NO vibration in my steering wheel while braking, just to clarify.

So I now might have two problems.

Do any of these symptoms sound familiar?

Jack up the car and rotate each wheel with your hand. Each wheel should rotate fairly smoothly and only just be touching the brake pads. If one or more wheels feels a lot tighter than the others than you know you have a brake caliper/brake rotor issue.

You say that you need to select neutral for the car to freewheel as it used to do.

If neutral fixes the problem, it's hardly going to be a brake issue is it.

Take the thing to an auto specialist. One quick test drive and they'll diagnose any transmission issues.

yeah if putting it into neutral makes the car coast just fine then it is more than likely a gearbox issue (won't be brakess). may be low on fluid, the fluid is in need of replacing, or the gearbox may have an issue.

Putting your auto in neutral whilst doing 110km/h is one of the best ways to destroy it.

Oil pressure is what keeps the transmission alive, the faster you go the higher the pressure. So what you're doing is effectively running you auto at idle oil pressure, (the pump is on the converter side), but you're spinning the internals at 110km/h, because it is locked to the tailshaft. Low pressure equals failure.

Get it to an auto specialist before you damage it any further.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...