Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The trionic system uses the resistor ® type spark plug to read combustion chamber conditions and "inform" the ECU about boost and ignition advance requirements for the engine in real time and continuously. This is why you must use resistor type plugs

wtf? :)

Hanaldo, here it is in a nutshell.

Iridiums and platinums have the benefit over coppers that the centre electrode lasts longer and therefore the plugs have a longer life. This you have understood correctly.

This is why nearly all cars from factory come with iridiums/platinums and why most people in a standard car run iridiums/platinums.

In a modified car pushing a lot of boost and horsepower the centre electrode and ground electrode fouls up quicker than they do in a stanadard car. Dependent on the tune they can foul up a hell of a lot quicker.

Since they foul up they will start to missfire. This has nothing to do with what the electrode is made out of, it will happen regardless.

Since plugs foul up quicker in a highly modified car, there is not much point using an expensive iridium/platinum spark plug. Hence people use the cheaper alternative, a copper.

Now the added benefit of a copper plug is they can be gapped down when high boost levels are used. You are not ment to gap down an iridum/platinum plug because the electrode can get damaged very easily and render the plug useless.

So yes your tuner is right, however I don't think you will need to go below a 0.8 gap. I have run 20psi and nitrous through mine on a 0.8 copper plug through Splitfire coilpacks and not had a missfire if the plugs were in good condition.

As for the resistor plug, yes he is correct, you are ment to use a resistor spark plug on a RB ignition system. Personally I don't know what the effects are of not running one on an RB are as I have never done so.

So to conclude you want the following spark plug in an RB engine:

BCPR6E

Obviously the heat change is dependent on mods. I use 7's because I need to for the nitrous and high boost level. Other plugs will fit such as:

BPR6E

BPR6ES

BKR6E

etc.

The main differences here are the S on the end stands for "Standard", which means the spark plug doesn't have a V groove on the centre electrode which is ment to give a better burn. So if you can, get one without the S on the end.

And the main difference between the BKR and the BCPR is that the BCPR is slightly longer on the end of the spark plug going into the coil pack than the BKR.

Inside the coilpack there is a little spring that makes the connection between the coilpack and the spark plug. The BCPR compresses this spring more and gives a better contact (once again helps against missfires.)

*I used to sell NGK plugs for years at Autobarn and had many talks with the NGK rep. On a weekly basis I would get guys in imports coming in complaining about missfires due to them running wrong plugs*

Edited by PM-R33

i've run both resistor and non resistor type with no noticeable difference, works the same either way but yes technically your supposed to use resistor type for skylines.

coilpacks are the biggest factor when it comes to plug gaps, for example when i had standard coilpacks, which were pretty tired, i had to gap the plugs down to ~.5mm to stop it misfiring under boost. yes this isnt ideal but its better than misfiring and fixes the problem until you can get new coilpacks. every cars different but basically you want to run the biggest gap you can without misfire. if you can play around with gaps yourself do some experimentation to find what works best, if your paying a mechanic then its probably best to just go straight to .7-.8

Hanaldo, here it is in a nutshell.

Iridiums and platinums have the benefit over coppers that the centre electrode lasts longer and therefore the plugs have a longer life. This you have understood correctly.

This is why nearly all cars from factory come with iridiums/platinums and why most people in a standard car run iridiums/platinums.

In a modified car pushing a lot of boost and horsepower the centre electrode and ground electrode fouls up quicker than they do in a stanadard car. Dependent on the tune they can foul up a hell of a lot quicker.

Since they foul up they will start to missfire. This has nothing to do with what the electrode is made out of, it will happen regardless.

Since plugs foul up quicker in a highly modified car, there is not much point using an expensive iridium/platinum spark plug. Hence people use the cheaper alternative, a copper.

Now the added benefit of a copper plug is they can be gapped down when high boost levels are used. You are not ment to gap down an iridum/platinum plug because the electrode can get damaged very easily and render the plug useless.

So yes your tuner is right, however I don't think you will need to go below a 0.8 gap. I have run 20psi and nitrous through mine on a 0.8 copper plug through Splitfire coilpacks and not had a missfire if the plugs were in good condition.

As for the resistor plug, yes he is correct, you are ment to use a resistor spark plug on a RB ignition system. Personally I don't know what the effects are of not running one on an RB are as I have never done so.

So to conclude you want the following spark plug in an RB engine:

BCPR6E

Obviously the heat change is dependent on mods. I use 7's because I need to for the nitrous and high boost level. Other plugs will fit such as:

BPR6E

BPR6ES

BKR6E

etc.

The main differences here are the S on the end stands for "Standard", which means the spark plug doesn't have a V groove on the centre electrode which is ment to give a better burn. So if you can, get one without the S on the end.

And the main difference between the BKR and the BCPR is that the BCPR is slightly longer on the end of the spark plug going into the coil pack than the BKR.

Inside the coilpack there is a little spring that makes the connection between the coilpack and the spark plug. The BCPR compresses this spring more and gives a better contact (once again helps against missfires.)

*I used to sell NGK plugs for years at Autobarn and had many talks with the NGK rep. On a weekly basis I would get guys in imports coming in complaining about missfires due to them running wrong plugs*

i agree :(

So to conclude you want the following spark plug in an RB engine:

BCPR6E

Thanks for all the info, Phill.

Would the following be alright to purchase??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-NGK-V-Power-Performance-Spark-Plugs-BCPR6E-11-5632-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f4ff0ad7QQitemZ300463098583QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

apart from the 1.1mm gap they'll be fine. you'll probs have to gap them down a bit

Thanks, ended up buying some other random sparks from a shop down the road. I'll get the deet of them when i get home (if I remember) and I'll post them up.

They seem to be running alright.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...