Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so to tell the story ill start from the begining.

I bought my 98 40th aniverseary r33 gts-t about 10 months after my stock 96 r33 was a write off after the big perth hail storm.:(

I got it with about 70 000 on the clock and it just seamed to have much more power. So not being the bees knees on cars and all and just getting to learning about everything you can do with mods i just left it as being a better car. Anyway today i read a froum on how to ground the standard solenoid and run at 7-8 psi so thought great sounds easy so went to do it. Well i looked at the soleniod and it had no hoses going into it (wtf) so had a look around. Then i saw that to my supprise i had a blitz sbc dual soleniod cool i thought. Anway traced the cables into the interior and they went all the way to behind the ash tray, so i pulled it out and there was the boost controler there all the time ( felt like bit f a bumb ass) . So now i had to have a bit of a play and got some good boost out of it but as i'm still kinda knew to the whole mod thing can anyone give me any advise on what it should be set at with a stock turbo as don't want to over boost the engine but really stoked with the find.

10psi should be safe, hehe dunno why the previous post didnt load up when I viewed the page before, I wouldnt go more than 12psi though.

in saying that I had an rb20 180 before and ran that around on 1 bar with standard turbo, ca18 side mount (thin as fk) 3" exaust and a walbro pump for a year or so and didnt have an issue, could be that I got lucky though, next guy to own it wrote it off though so I cant say how long it lasted

Edited by s13_Skyline_inside

If it goes better than your old r33, then i would just see what boost it is running before you do anything. At a guessyou will get better gains by having the ecu remapped than than turning the boost up more.

got it running at 10psi for now and it seams to handle that ok. Just feel like i got this bug now and want more and more and more. Pissing the mrs off always looking at what i can do. lol.

got it running at 10psi for now and it seams to handle that ok. Just feel like i got this bug now and want more and more and more. Pissing the mrs off always looking at what i can do. lol.

How do you know it only has the standard turbo? Could be a hi-flow. Could have an after market ECU. Does it have a standard exhaust, intercooler etc?

Time to do some poking around in the engine bay perhaps. Might find some more hidden treasure. :(

yeah thought that too. It's got 3 1/2 inch exhaust blitz nur spec, standard intercooler though ( Got to get an after market one next thing i'm doing anyone got ideas on brand? ), jap psr and psr-k stickers when open the fuel flap to fill up (not sure what this means, Bigger pump or bigger injectors) , hks super direct flow pod. Don't know about ecu how can you tell if it has after market one can any one tell me? got a conect cable on the way will that tell me when i plug it into my laptop?

Might just have to go to some where like hypertune and get them to have a look.

oh yeah the boost controller plugs into a little box called greedy turbo data link not sure what is but think it for my boost gauge. Any ideas would be awesome!

Edited by aardi

i havnt read the whole thread, but personaly i would run 8-10 psi, because if you have the standard ecu, it will be to R&R with anymore psi, and it will feel like shit and not smooth

i havnt read the whole thread, but personaly i would run 8-10 psi, because if you have the standard ecu, it will be to R&R with anymore psi, and it will feel like shit and not smooth

Yeah i don't want to over do it my mrs just rang me from the freeway and said it got a bit of a miss now? getting a bit worried!!!!!!!

Hey jjman can't pm you back need to post more so they let me. I'm in joondalup but can travel any help would be great cause don't wan't to fk it as my last one went to the gods in the storm!!!!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...