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Ok chuckie you can take it confrontationally.

For the rest of the SAU community I am suggesting that if drive was suddenly engaged on a dyno the consequences to life are very high. No driveshaft = no chance.

There has been an incident on a dyno in Sydney where the operator nearly lost a leg when drive suddenly engaged on an R32 GTR years ago. Whilst this might be unlikely, for the 10 minutes it takes to remove the driveshaft it is worth the time.

Driving on the road is a different matter.

Ok chuckie you can take it confrontationally.

For the rest of the SAU community I am suggesting that if drive was suddenly engaged on a dyno the consequences to life are very high. No driveshaft = no chance.

There has been an incident on a dyno in Sydney where the operator nearly lost a leg when drive suddenly engaged on an R32 GTR years ago. Whilst this might be unlikely, for the 10 minutes it takes to remove the driveshaft it is worth the time.

Driving on the road is a different matter.

Thank`s Wolverine ,i seen few thing`s happen on Dyno`s & never nice, but it`s save as the System is disabled,the shop that did forum members car is happy with this,so iam not sure why your all bagging us about it :unsure: it`s in workshop manual why the negativity :thanks:

Forget it Charles, the idiots who have it stuck in their mind that it is a bad thing will never be convinced.

For the record, a SOLID 4WD light does NOT mean the system is in AIR BLEED mode, it means that you have started to drive with the bleed wire unplugged.. i.e. IT'S AN ERROR

The workshop manual provides TWO methods of putting the car in 2WD mode, one is drop the front prop shaft, the other is the method I have outlined.

The only way the system can engage 4WD again is if you turn the car off.

If you're that scared, then don't do it. Simple. Just don't come on here and bag people that have PROVEN it works.

I read and re-read what I wrote and I just can't find the bit where I said pulling the plug was wrong or would cause damage to the car.

On the other hand I was really pleased to have the information at hand to be able to stick it in 2WD for road use.

Well if you two want to get our knickers in a knot by reading waaay too far into what I wrote there isn't much I can do about that.

Just for the record, if you are putting a car on a two wheel dyno I would strongly suggest removing the front drive shaft. If there is any electronic glitch while the drive shaft is still connected there could be catastrophic consequences.

What is that then?

Honestly, I'm over helping and providing information to people in this section.

From here on, I shall keep everything I learn to myself.

Edited by bubba

Do you really want an explanation??

1. A car running on a dyno at 120km/h with switch disconnected = no problem

2. A car running on a dyno at 120km/h with driveshaft removed = no problem

Electronic glitch occurs perhaps 1/10,000 - 1/1,000,000?? chance and ATESSA re-engages

Case 1 Drive engages and potentially serious injury to operator and car.

Case 2 Zero risk of drive engaging.

It is probably a very low risk but it only takes 5 mins to disengage and bring the risk to zero.

So if you don't want to contribute any more because I agree with you for 99% of what you have said and disagree with you in one minor way then that is your call.

It's not you Wolverine, it's the majority of people in here who are internet warriors just make things so damn hard I cbf dealing with it anymore.

Tim, you know I love you :)

Edited by bubba

Look up high above the kick panel, probably near/behind the bonnet release cable. It's a green socket, white plug, single wire either side.

lachlanw: air bleed mode is simply unplugging the plug and turning the key to ON. If you forget to replug then start the car, as soon as you start moving it will throw up an error (the solid light).

oh my bad . how do you get it in airbleed mode ?

on a slightly related note i just downlaoded the latest version of blazt software which does hicas doignostic and real time display of angles

lol @ your a shit stirer ways lachlan. / thread. I can remember you posting up extensive info on this topic not long ago, i shall search. Havent seen you in here in ages. go back to the wasteland and play with your troll tard buddies. :thumbsup: You usually have some good info to contribute. Blatz software is interesting though.

Edited by dirtyRS4

Look up high above the kick panel, probably near/behind the bonnet release cable. It's a green socket, white plug, single wire either side.

Thanks for that. I found it. It was wrapped up to one of the wiring harnesses with tape.

I was surprised at how much grip I still had until I really started hooning it. Much opposite lock twirling. Reminded me of a couple of my old skylines n gave me a little smile.

Think I'm gonna fit a switch to it, for occasional sideways fun.

On another slightly different note. Is it worth running it in 2wd mode on my 60 mile run to n from work? Doubtful, but maybe save a little fuel ?

Well Try it & see what you get ,:thumbsup:

agreed, post up the results.

IMO: i think it may be less economic by trying to give you the same power(or more as some said) by putting it all to two wheels.

Just a question; With the gear box being designed for a Manual and not the RWD, would this create any extra clutch wear or gear damage? I know its bad to red line in first in a 4wd, so does this get eliminated by 'f**king off the wire'?

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