Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Want a guide? this is for 33.

1. Remove all hoses to intake pipe (circled in yellow). Generally use pliers to pull together the clips, and pull the hoses with some force to pop them off. Use pliers on the big bastard clip (circled in red) and biggest hose pipe to squeeze together then back up the hose. Then should be easy to pull the hose off

2. Use socket and screwdrivers to undo metal hose clamps holding the rubber joiners (circled in purple/pink) to the intake pipe - that smaller metal pipe that goes into your intake plenum (labelled).

3. Remove two bolts holding intake to engine (circled in aqua/light blue) using either philips head screw-driver or correct sized socket (easier)

4. May require a bit of a "wiggle" to lever out. Check to see if any hoses are still attached if it refuses to come out and remove these.

5. Unclip 2x plugs to ignition block (r33 series1 .. not on series2) - I've circled them in orange. . Thats the thing on stilts at the back of the plastic spark plug cover (the thing that says nissan 2500).

6. Use hex tools to remove the screws to the plastic cover (these are circled in green) once the intake pipe has been removed. Try Dick Smiths to buy a kit with all funny little screw things you might find on any car or electronic device.

7. Loosen screws for cam breather hose (circled in blue). Remove cam breather hose.

8. Slide the plastic cover out.

9. Use 9mm socket to remove 2x bolts for each ignition coil (those plastic blobby things with clips going to them). They're on diagonal corners to each other.

10. Use some nice force to pull coil directly upwards. Ignition coil should go "pop". Should see ass of spark plug

11. Go to repco/bunnings/etc and get long socket that can go over stuff like spark plugs.. long nuts, etc. Plugs are 16mm threads and require a 16mm socket. You can generally buy a "spark plug socket kit" for $10 from repco which has all the spark plug sockets all you'd encounter on any car out there.

12. Buy a socket extender.. Allows you to attach the socket to a "stick" that goes down into long holes with your wratchet.

13. use extender plus long socket of the correct size to unscrew the plug. Look at plug to see condition:

white = cylinder is running lean (too much air).. not good.. tell tuner this to adjust your mixtures.

dead black = cylinder is running possibly too rich (too much fuel).. not good..means unclean spark if too dirty. Called "fouling". Black is better than white though, generally your motor will cope with a rich mixture, rather than lean.

lightish grey - quite nice. Engine is probably well within good running range. Plugs may not need replacing unless they look obviously old/ratty.

14. Go to Repco.. Ask for 6x new spark plugs (search maintenance for which ones you want.. 50 threads on this).

15. Gap plug to correct length.. use feeler guage ($5 from bunnings, repco, etc) to insert the correct distance "fingers" underneath to equal desired gap (0.8mm is good). They are basically just little metal measures that count out millimeters to go under stuff. Use hammer to ever so slightly tap the end of the plug down until the end sits its flat on the feeler guage. This is now correctly gapped and ready to go in.

16. Screw plug back in, making sure not excessive force, but they must be tight and well in.

17. Move to next plug, etc.

18. Put everything back, basically reverse of the above.

tHere, 2 minute guide.

p.s. isn't there a guide up already?

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

for the average fool such as myself words dont help much and arent too descriptive... u generally have to have an idea about what u are doing and what certain things mean...

BTW that is WRONG.... the spark plugs in skylines are 16MM.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks PREDATOR, for the spark plug guide. I followed it step by step and managed to change my plugs in an 1 hour and a bit. I changed em to coppers from platinums and the coppers are so much better. Ive changed to a colder plug the BCPRK7E-11 which were gapped to 0.80. The car feels much stronger, maybe due to the plug being a better spark generator than the platinums.

If anyone needs hand with their plugs, pm me and im willing to help.

Cheers

AK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...