Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Baron Bohr

hehehe... ;)  Quite surprised.  But if I wanted a fast station wagon, I'd get an Audi RS4! :D  (But ATM, I can't afford either an Audi RS4 or a GTR... :mad:)

Baron Bohr :bat:

*hands baron a shovel*

digger upperer!!

Well I have a genuine Stagea RS260 Autech,

Here are the cost and all the details of this car

Brand new 7,300,000 yen including taxes. x 62yen/$aus

that is $118,000 brand new in japan

My car was the last WGNC34 built by Autech.

color is black

black leather

Twin sunroofs

woodgrain interior kit

6 speed trans

Nismo aluminium radiator

Nismo twin plate clutch

upgraded intercooler

HKS 2530 turbo's

HKS height shocks

HKS engine pipes

signal 41/2" cat

Trial bazkooka 5" exhaust with 6" exhaust tip (stainless)

Car runs 12.6 standard boost

my car should run 11.9 when finished with 1.3 bar

final cost to date is unknown

car is on gold cost and is being complied at present.

When my compliance is complete Ill post some photo's.

Used Autech Stageas sell for around 4.3-5-6 mil yen at auction

Originally posted by MR-GTR

Well I have a genuine Stagea RS260 Autech,  

Here are the cost and all the details  of this car

Brand new 7,300,000 yen including taxes.  x 62yen/$aus

that is $118,000  brand new in japan

My car was the last WGNC34 built by Autech.  

color is black

black leather

Twin sunroofs

woodgrain interior kit

6 speed trans

Nismo aluminium radiator

Nismo twin plate clutch

upgraded  intercooler

HKS 2530 turbo's

HKS height shocks

HKS engine pipes

signal 41/2" cat

Trial bazkooka 5" exhaust with 6" exhaust tip (stainless)

Car runs 12.6 standard boost

my car should run 11.9 when finished with 1.3 bar

final cost to date is unknown

car is on gold cost and is being complied at present.

When my compliance is complete Ill post some photo's.

Used Autech Stageas sell for around 4.3-5-6 mil yen at auction

can't wait to see this baby :uh-huh:

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...