Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:stupid:

124mph is what a full weight (1700kg+) R33 GTR will do with 330-350rwkw.

No way it was 500rwhp in a lighter body with 124mph

in america a dynojet the old one s like ours is standed...

if you run a dynodyamic like most of you guys it s not reliable (dyno will not read the same from shop to shop cause its adjustable)

and a dynopack is a hub dyno so it would read alot higher( also adjustable so its no consistance)

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Who cares what the power really is. The dyno is there for tuning and upgrade comparisons, so long as you are using the same dyno everytime then you can see what changes net the best results. Most dynos in this country are probably dyno dynamics (though I could be wrong, not really sure) and they wouldnt be out by too much more then say 5-10% from eachother. Which in the grand scheme of things isnt really that much.

I can comment on the methanol helping make power safely and easily. It is amazing stuff, you can be around 15% too rich and it doesnt affect power production, it just runs alot cooler, if you run it too lean, it wont knock, it just usually melts pistons pretty quick.

We pumped out 590rwhp on the rb30det w/gt35r last week. Boost bled from 23psi down to 19psi (running on gate pressure only, no controller). When we setup the solenoid and get it to flatline boost to redline I suspect the power will grow a little over the 600rwhp mark. Which is going out of the realm of regular gt35r territory by a long shot.

I dont know why alot of other people dont run it, or atleast run it in a mix w/ 98pulp. I just cant express enough how magical it is. The only negative is you need a smaller less efficient radiator and oil cooler. Not very often you go backwards when running a turbo car in those two areas lol.

there are heaps of people here that are making that power on stock rb25's

why are you not capable of understanding this?

did you look at the dyno thread like we told you?

also a dynapac hub dyno can read higher, or it can read the same as a dyno dynamics etc, as there is a correction mode for this.

(also my previous motor lasted 3 very hard years at that level, but did die eventually)

Ye. They can last at over 400 for a while. But look at his many have broken at 300hp. Any number of things can go wrong

90% is bad tuning, or something breaking to cause the tune to go out, afm/fuel pump/injectors failing. If any of this goes at any power level it can kill a motor quite quickly.

My cousins bf ran his r33 with around 420rwhp on a stock internal rb25 for around a 1.5 yrs thrashing it at drift days before it blew. That was pretty good considering it did alot of street racing and skids also.

mmm..but if youre only running in the mid 120s then it isnt really making 500+ now is it

Exactly as we were saying :D

His "500rwhp" is like our 400rwhp - or there abouts.

So yes - in his terms 500rwhp is most certainly possible

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...