Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

EMS stinger FTW!!

Lol :D

i like the motorsport ones, actually also good ecu's just did a 300rwkw CA with one, had nice timing control... no drift at all was impressed with it.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive ran wolfs on all of my cars s14, r32 gtr and got one going in my r34 in january....

they r a good ecu, all of my mates use them 2, from 200kw s13's to a 800hp rx4 drag car....

its all in the tuner, if ur in melbourne take it to robert sabadin in clayton.

i used the v4 in the gtr and 2hunge and it was sweet, the new version v500 hasd ironed out the lil head f**k of cold starts and are very good imo, however as stated there only as good as there tuner. if u contact wolf directly they will tell u there prefered tuner in ur state...

yeah i send any WOLF enquiry to Rob @ sabbadin, he is the only decent Wolf tuner around i can trust to send people too..

yeah i send any WOLF enquiry to Rob @ sabbadin, he is the only decent Wolf tuner around i can trust to send people too..

He loves his wolfs, he couldn't understand why I wanted to get rid of mine and replace it with a stock ecu with a nistune. The fact it needed 1100rpm to hold idle, 19L/100km and it doesn't look stock were pretty good reasons to me.

He loves his wolfs, he couldn't understand why I wanted to get rid of mine and replace it with a stock ecu with a nistune. The fact it needed 1100rpm to hold idle, 19L/100km and it doesn't look stock were pretty good reasons to me.

did u have the plug and play or the full ecu swap.

the plug and play is pretty subtle and easily hideable.... the full swap is another story though lol....

there new hand controllers and dash displays are pretty cool too, a little pricey but i really like them

did rob or matt tune ur one dude or did u get it done somewhere else??

it was plug and play, rob tuned it but I am in SA so I flew over to buy the car, I generally just wasn't happy with the feature set or performance of the ECU, poor idle, poor fuel economy even with a solid tune on it, there was many hours spent on the dyno with the previous owner.

I went back to the rb20 ecu with a nistune and in just 3 hours had it beating the wolf in every department, with a road tune and a few more hours touch ups it is brilliant now, the wolf could never match its fuel economy, idle, or being able to handle air con on at the same time, even the AAC valve control was crap.

not to mention instant defect if seen by a police man.

it was plug and play, rob tuned it but I am in SA so I flew over to buy the car, I generally just wasn't happy with the feature set or performance of the ECU, poor idle, poor fuel economy even with a solid tune on it, there was many hours spent on the dyno with the previous owner.

I went back to the rb20 ecu with a nistune and in just 3 hours had it beating the wolf in every department, with a road tune and a few more hours touch ups it is brilliant now, the wolf could never match its fuel economy, idle, or being able to handle air con on at the same time, even the AAC valve control was crap.

not to mention instant defect if seen by a police man.

this is why most tuners CBF'd with them..... good tunes are possible but you need to spend too much time compared to just about every other ecu out there, it doesnt make good business sense.

Wow I really didn't think they where that complicated?

Especially the V500. We have used them on a few cars for there PWM output control.

I tune every system, but when you require a system (at a reasonable price) that can do pulse width modulated control over TPS, Wheel speed, Boost, RPM and engine temp all at the same time? The answers are very far and few between. Even the latest offering from haltech cant. Please correct me if I am wrong but I couldn't see anything on Vipec either. Again correct me if I am wrong but there may be a 32x32 table in EMS that can be PWM, but I think its just a 3D table, with no external corrections.

Just to give you an example, Boost control. Easiest PWM to understand.

What may be required is a boost pressure of 30psi. But when on the trans brake boost needs to be limited to 10psi. Also from 0 - 40 Kmph boost needs to be trimmed from 10-25 then from 40-80 the boost trimmed from 25-30. Now I dont mean trimmed as in stepped, I mean trimmed. So when running High horse power engines on tiny little radial tiers we don't shock them.

I also want the boost to be trimmed from 0deg engine temp to operating temp. So gate pressure at 0 deg and 30 psi from 64deg and up. Even run an external switch for your 2 maps, one for 98 and one for E85. So when we are on 98 our base pressure is now 20psi and all other corrections work from that.

Sounds easy, Most systems cant do it. Or they can do just that and nothing else.

I honestly don't think it takes me any longer to tune a wolf than any other system, be it adaptronic or power FC or a VE SS commodore (HP) with a massive cam shaft.

Edited by HYPED6
Wow I really didn't think they where that complicated?

Especially the V500. We have used them on a few cars for there PWM output control.

I tune every system, but when you require a system (at a reasonable price) that can do pulse width modulated control over TPS, Wheel speed, Boost, RPM and engine temp all at the same time? The answers are very far and few between. Even the latest offering from haltech cant. Please correct me if I am wrong but I couldn't see anything on Vipec either. Again correct me if I am wrong but there may be a 32x32 table in EMS that can be PWM, but I think its just a 3D table, with no external corrections.

Just to give you an example, Boost control. Easiest PWM to understand.

What may be required is a boost pressure of 30psi. But when on the trans brake boost needs to be limited to 10psi. Also from 0 - 40 Kmph boost needs to be trimmed from 10-25 then from 40-80 the boost trimmed from 25-30. Now I dont mean trimmed as in stepped, I mean trimmed. So when running High horse power engines on tiny little radial tiers we don't shock them.

I also want the boost to be trimmed from 0deg engine temp to operating temp. So gate pressure at 0 deg and 30 psi from 64deg and up. Even run an external switch for your 2 maps, one for 98 and one for E85. So when we are on 98 our base pressure is now 20psi and all other corrections work from that.

Sounds easy, Most systems cant do it. Or they can do just that and nothing else.

I honestly don't think it takes me any longer to tune a wolf than any other system, be it adaptronic or power FC or a VE SS commodore (HP) with a massive cam shaft.

that's about 30mins work max... you telling me you can do the above in 30mins on a new engine from scratch..... as for e85 just run the one map and depending on ecu use the wide band input to auto calculate (like gm e38 in later holdens) or a content sender.

that's about 30mins work max... you telling me you can do the above in 30mins on a new engine from scratch..... as for e85 just run the one map and depending on ecu use the wide band input to auto calculate (like gm e38 in later holdens) or a content sender.

I think you missed the point. Its not a description on how fast I can tune. Its to show that the days of "tuning" to 12:1 and putting in the correct timing at full throttle are now gone.

Its the extra things like autronics awesome individual cylinder trims over load and RPM. Very useful when pushing an engine and you have 1 pesky cylinder that is just too hot. You trim it up and keep going. Great for the tuner that monitors individual cylinders. While every one else leaves it at 0 and wonders why you would ever need them.

Its EMS's Injection end angle over Load and RPM. This is awesome when you have 1600cc injectors and are only using 50% duty on 98 at full noise.

Its controlling automatic transmissions. And not in preset little boxes like 3-4 shift pressure but actually wiring a system that takes control of the auto.

Its the 2 steps with no external buttons. Just clutch in, full throttle and 0 wheel speed.

Its Nos control PWM. Use a solenoid that can flow 400hp worth of gas and trim it over wheel speed. Dry shot with all the trimming done by the ECU

Tuning engines for turbo preservation. Measuring the air in and the air out. Pressures, Temps all the fun stuff.

Tuning for engine preservation, Holding an engine flat for an hour, not just a power run or drag run. Its squeezing 800rwhp out of a stock bottom end 2.5 liter engine by measuring and calculating.

This is what I am demonstrating. Not how long it takes to trim a PE table and throw some timing at an engine.

^^ Thats all very well...but that would be what 0.5% of ECU's would need those functions.

So what car needs 11ty funtions like a staged 400hp N2O setup, or 20 different boost levels?

The average club level circuit car....nup

Street/Strip.....nup

Pure street....nup

Race boats....nup

Champ car/ALMS prototypes...maybe....but how many of those use Wolf?

This is why the cheaper ECU's eg Haltech, Link, EMS, AEM etc etc dont have these features.

I would rather have an ECU that can pick up the factory crank trigger over somthing that has a million features but struggles with the Nissan Optical Se./nsor.

Sure If I were building a mega budget endurance racer so I could win Le Mans than sure I would want those features.....but would I pick Wolf over a Pectrel T-6, Motec M800 etc.....Well no.

^^ Thats all very well...but that would be what 0.5% of ECU's would need those functions.

So what car needs 11ty funtions like a staged 400hp N2O setup, or 20 different boost levels?

The average club level circuit car....nup

Street/Strip.....nup

Pure street....nup

Race boats....nup

Champ car/ALMS prototypes...maybe....but how many of those use Wolf?

This is why the cheaper ECU's eg Haltech, Link, EMS, AEM etc etc dont have these features.

I would rather have an ECU that can pick up the factory crank trigger over somthing that has a million features but struggles with the Nissan Optical Se./nsor.

Sure If I were building a mega budget endurance racer so I could win Le Mans than sure I would want those features.....but would I pick Wolf over a Pectrel T-6, Motec M800 etc.....Well no.

+1

once again again proving race car examples have little to no bearing on 99% of this forum.

long lists of features are wants, not a need.

I think you missed the point. Its not a description on how fast I can tune. Its to show that the days of "tuning" to 12:1 and putting in the correct timing at full throttle are now gone.

That wasnt my point, you said it takes no longer tune than other ecu's and used GM reflashing as an example which takes very little time to get perfect due to the complex background algorithms.

there is room for all ecu's, everyone has their favorites and i have about 4 i really like and one i cant stand.... at the end of the day it just personal preference... it just turns out many i speak to in the trade and @ seminars share the same sentiments.

^^ Thats all very well...but that would be what 0.5% of ECU's would need those functions.

So what car needs 11ty funtions like a staged 400hp N2O setup, or 20 different boost levels?

The average club level circuit car....nup

Street/Strip.....nup

Pure street....nup

Race boats....nup

Champ car/ALMS prototypes...maybe....but how many of those use Wolf?

This is why the cheaper ECU's eg Haltech, Link, EMS, AEM etc etc dont have these features.

I would rather have an ECU that can pick up the factory crank trigger over somthing that has a million features but struggles with the Nissan Optical Se./nsor.

Sure If I were building a mega budget endurance racer so I could win Le Mans than sure I would want those features.....but would I pick Wolf over a Pectrel T-6, Motec M800 etc.....Well no.

I am by no means defending wolf. When you start to see what is involved in setting up these cars on a daily basis, I would rather have the option and not use it than need the option and not have it. Be it a haltch/motec what ever.

The average club level circuit car.... Last targa I tuned a 280Z that cam 1st in its class. No bells and whistles necessary. So yes No 400 hp gas here. Just simple Electric Water pump and fan control

Street/Strip..... The quickest 1JZ in Australia was set up with the exact boost control setup in my post.

Pure street.... Cant go past the factory systems, bar none.

Race boats.... When you are holding an engine flat for the southern 80 you better hope you have cylinder trim.

I thought on this forum there where enthusiasts from all walks of life. People that use there skylines daily, to the guys the just love trying something new and maybe drive there cars for half the year.

I am an enthusiast just like you guys. I see this stuff every day. I like you guys am always looking for better ways to enjoy my passion which is cars.

If you are some one that just needs your management system to control injectors and coils then thats great. Believe me. I have done more than 1 nistune in my time. But engine management doesn't just stop there.

Edited by HYPED6

Even a 15 year old PFC have cylinder trims, not many ECUs I know Dont have it.

Shanes 1.5JZ is hardly a street strip car either.

I dont hate wolf, the Soarer guys love them (but most of them are clueless lol) But there are better options out there imo. features or no features.

I thought on this forum there where enthusiasts from all walks of life

We are, and the OP is talking about a daily driver with basic mods.

Hence the ECU he's asking about realistically isnt the best choice.

So looking at this from a layman's point of view I can only draw one conclusion, The wolf is all that and more but a lot of tuners are shit scared of them through ignorace.

I'm glad I let my tuner talk me in to one. It shits on the previous haltech i was using. And funnily enough, My car spends less time on the dyno for a tune than ever it did with the haltech and for a better result.

Who's fault is that, The tuner or the ecu ?

Even a 15 year old PFC have cylinder trims, not many ECUs I know Dont have it.

Shanes 1.5JZ is hardly a street strip car either.

I dont hate wolf, the Soarer guys love them (but most of them are clueless lol) But there are better options out there imo. features or no features.

PFC Wont do it over load and RPM where you need them

Shanes Isn't the Quickest 1JZ. He has a 1.5. Derek Johnson has the quickest in his VS ute. And its a stocker bottom end still and very street driven.

For a Stocker RB25 I agree there are better options.

Edited by HYPED6

So looking at this from a layman's point of view I can only draw one conclusion, The wolf is all that and more but a lot of tuners are shit scared of them through ignorace.

I'm glad I let my tuner talk me in to one. It shits on the previous haltech i was using. And funnily enough, My car spends less time on the dyno for a tune than ever it did with the haltech and for a better result.

Who's fault is that, The tuner or the ecu ?

+1

So looking at this from a layman's point of view I can only draw one conclusion, The wolf is all that and more but a lot of tuners are shit scared of them through ignorace.

I'm glad I let my tuner talk me in to one. It shits on the previous haltech i was using. And funnily enough, My car spends less time on the dyno for a tune than ever it did with the haltech and for a better result.

Who's fault is that, The tuner or the ecu ?

yeah it has all the features but my point has been all along so many other ecu's have exact same features (and more) that take less time to navigate and in my own cars i have had many firmware and trigger issues. So basically why pay more for a product that is going to take you longer to get to point b? in a basic car with basic mods?? all those extra features can be a hinderance.

In a car like Hyped6 is talking about i can whole heartedly concur in needing all the extra bells and whistles and the added charge time to the customer to set up the boost vs gear... etc.. we have done similar with M800's and Link G4's. We hope to do some pretty crazy stuff with the new E1280s too but i would never recomend these ecus for a daily driver who has basic mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Assuming the current ECU is stock, it might be worth getting hold of a nissan data scan cable. It could be as simple as voltage at the ECU
    • You need to test for spark when it matters - ie cranking. Kill the fuel supply, pull a plug and earth it, set up a camera and go crank. The spark needs to be consistent, every other turn of the engine. Not some sputtering of occasional spark. The reason I say this is because spinning the CAS in the air is not the same as spinning it installed, and if there is a bearing problem in it, the disk might work differently in the air than in the engine. You won't want to try to set the timing unless you know the spark is happening right.  Also, reconsider running the R35 coils against the stock ECU. They like a different amount of dwell cf the originals. It's not massive, you can actually run them, but it is better if you can adjust the dwell (which you can with Nistune in the stocker, or with an aftermarket ECU). Besides any of that - when you had the multimeter out, have you got power where it needs to be, earth where it needs to be (and when, in the case of igniter triggers), etc?
    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
×
×
  • Create New...