Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

interested in what a "safe" range for exhaust gas temp is?

im running internally stock rb26 and about to start tuning it on E85, i would like to know what safe EGTs are for BP98 and also E85.

when i say EGT's i mean at the dump pipe or rear housings. as getting to the rb26 manifold runners is near impossible.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346206-safe-exhaust-gas-temperature-egt/
Share on other sites

interested in what a "safe" range for exhaust gas temp is?

im running internally stock rb26 and about to start tuning it on E85, i would like to know what safe EGTs are for BP98 and also E85.

when i say EGT's i mean at the dump pipe or rear housings. as getting to the rb26 manifold runners is near impossible.

cheers

No one is going to be able to give you that information as its so dependant upon location and calibration. What I would try is to start on the richer side and progressivly remove enrichment until the percentage enrichment vs percentage EGT gain starts to increase rapidly. You will most likely find that going from say 10:1 to 10.5:1 will do little compared to 12:1 to 12.5:1. I would do the same on E85.

There is no exact science as you have no real way of monitoring individual cylinders. This is where Ion sensing coils really help.

ok thanks, what are Ion sensing coils? they sound expensive.

im not really interested in individual cylinders so much i can check this and compare to the other cylinders, But im more interested in a max EGT before a turbo dies or a piston melts etc

what are a common ballpark EGT for 98 octane fuel, surely there has to be a ballpark, say 1000 degrees max

N1 turboes, stock internals with adj cam gears, 3.5 exh, tomei 600cc, walbro and power fc and cooling mods.

Currently ive tuned it to 293kw on 18psi afr aimed around 11.5WOT as the car hits the circuit a bit.

Ill be running e85 and just want to have a ball park on EGTs for when i tune it. Just thought there was a common EGT range to look out for

Well i'll put it this way. I don't think I have ever seen above 900 degrees on WOT through all gears on BP98.

BP 98 I have seen 890 degs C WOT, sensor in rear dump pipe (v spec), tuned. Mate was like OMG lolz

Ill be running e85 and just want to have a ball park on EGTs for when i tune it. Just thought there was a common EGT range to look out for

Yea...i asked a similar question a while back and didnt get any definite ans....

I'll be using water/meth injection though and already have a wideband installed for tuning

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...