Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes, we had a chat today. I did advise before hand that i only wanted 16psi but i thought it would have pulled a bigger figure on that. I mentioned adding a high pressure actuator but he said that the 18psi actuator on it initially was to large and a 12-14psi actuator would be better suited for my build. Atm i happy with how the car is running but just think it could have pulled a larger figure. Will this high pressure actuator increase the hp by that much?
Well you've just answered the question why did they pull out the 18psi actuator - because you said you only wanted 16psi!!!!! Tell them to put the actuator back you will be happy to run 18psi and make some more power!

Truth is 18psi is a rough limit of the stock valve springs, so he may actually be avoiding causing you valve float.

Hypergear (Stao) himself found this issue, I have also seen it across many over results.

You may want to swap out your valve springs and retune.

  • Like 1

the Arias 20thou over sized pistons would be 8.6:1 using stock head gasket. With cosmetic gasket depending on what it is, would set your engine below factory compression ratio.

Which means more boost is required to produce the same amount of power with laggier response as the whole power band shifts towards the right. How ever this setup is ideal for larger turbos with plenty of boost. So this baby high flow might not be the exact turbo for your application.

With the stock valves and valve springs, I'm unsure at what psi they floats, conditions of it varies. Unsealed valves acts like vacuum leaks (with fuel)affecting response, power, and make the car feels hopeless pre-boost. I would definitely recommending stronger valve springs for high powered applications.

Truth is 18psi is a rough limit of the stock valve springs, so he may actually be avoiding causing you valve float.

Hypergear (Stao) himself found this issue, I have also seen it across many over results.

You may want to swap out your valve springs and retune.

You think its a boost pressure limit and not a power limit? Its probably a combination but I dont think you would get valve float at such low power.

Tao's car cops constant abuse at mostly over 300rwkw, surely the high power has a major factor as well.

The valves have to close against the pressure in the intake ports, the more pressure in them the harder it is for the valves to close, hence valve float, also depends on how hard he is revving it.

Power has very little to do with valve float.

But the dyno chart has no big dip in the power to suggest valve float, but boost does bleed off to 13-14psi like 99% of Hypergear turbos.

  • Like 1

I wouldn't care if its just valve floating. Its the damage it does. 24 leaking valves will affect lots of thing.

But the dyno chart has no big dip in the power to suggest valve float, but boost does bleed off to 13-14psi like 99% of Hypergear turbos.

Not 99%. 100% high flows without high pressure actuator will result in boost drop. This also apply to inlet and exhaust restrictions.

Read the thread, High pressure actautor I supplied was removed by user.

I wouldn't care if its just valve floating. Its the damage it does. 24 leaking valves will affect lots of thing.

Not 99%. 100% high flows without high pressure actuator will result in boost drop. This also apply to inlet and exhaust restrictions.

Read the thread, High pressure actautor I supplied was removed by user.

I read the thread, OP says its running 16psi, It isnt.

You wouldnt care if its valve floating?!?!?! I would certainly care if a valve seat cracked and fell out, or a head broke off the valve stem.

Funny how you guys look for any chance to get at Tao even if it doesnt make any sense (above) but dont comment on him possibly solving the issue the OP is having, low compression and incorrect turbo selection.

Funny how you guys look for any chance to get at Tao even if it doesnt make any sense (above) but dont comment on him possibly solving the issue the OP is having, low compression and incorrect turbo selection.

Might be because he is so quick to blame everything but the products he supplies, im sorry but 0.4:1 comp wont make 20-30rwkws difference, the engine would need maybe 2 degrees more timing to make up the difference, if he was running 7:1 comp than yeah sure it would make a big difference.

For all we know the tuner has a low reading dyno or it was a hot day or the cam timing is out, or there is a leak somewhere.

There are a million things it could be, but saying that having lower compression will mean that the dyno curve moves to the right is just a bit silly, especially with standard cams, sure off boost it might be a little bit softer, but with a good tuner the difference should be able to be made up with fuel and timing changes.

Of course Tao isnt going to say his turbo is at fault, because he builds/sells them.

*waits for all the fan boys*

  • Like 1

Might be because he is so quick to blame everything but the products he supplies, im sorry but 0.4:1 comp wont make 20-30rwkws difference, the engine would need maybe 2 degrees more timing to make up the difference, if he was running 7:1 comp than yeah sure it would make a big difference.

For all we know the tuner has a low reading dyno or it was a hot day or the cam timing is out, or there is a leak somewhere.

There are a million things it could be, but saying that having lower compression will mean that the dyno curve moves to the right is just a bit silly, especially with standard cams, sure off boost it might be a little bit softer, but with a good tuner the difference should be able to be made up with fuel and timing changes.

Of course Tao isnt going to say his turbo is at fault, because he builds/sells them.

*waits for all the fan boys*

You just said valve float does not affect performance and minut later you giving all the affects of valve float. answering your own query.

There are a million things it could be said your self.

Read ths OP's post. He's got low compression pistons with "cosmatic head gasket". Could be in 1.5 or 2 mm in thickness. who knows. might be below 8:1.

The valves have to close against the pressure in the intake ports, the more pressure in them the harder it is for the valves to close, hence valve float, also depends on how hard he is revving it.

Power has very little to do with valve float.

But the dyno chart has no big dip in the power to suggest valve float, but boost does bleed off to 13-14psi like 99% of Hypergear turbos.

I read the thread, OP says its running 16psi, It isnt.

You wouldnt care if its valve floating?!?!?! I would certainly care if a valve seat cracked and fell out, or a head broke off the valve stem.

^^^

Above will not affect power figure?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...