Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just changed all my fluids except the rear diff, how many kms should I be going between changing rear diff oil, standard R33 GTR sreies1 diff , car is 800+hp and sees the track once a month-ish along with some "normal" street stuff a few times a week ? if that matters?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346240-diff-oil-change/
Share on other sites

Good synthetic gear oils are incredibly tough. You typically triple the drain interval. So for an ordinary car, go from 100,000kms to 300,000kms. Not sure what that means for your 800hp beast tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346240-diff-oil-change/#findComment-5576145
Share on other sites

Good synthetic gear oils are incredibly tough. You typically triple the drain interval. So for an ordinary car, go from 100,000kms to 300,000kms. Not sure what that means for your 800hp beast tho.

cheers Stabby, 30000-50000 you'd think at least.. was only done about 5000 ago, so won't worry about that for a while...

would it be similar for the OS giken two way in the front? :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346240-diff-oil-change/#findComment-5576422
Share on other sites

cheers Stabby, 30000-50000 you'd think at least.. was only done about 5000 ago, so won't worry about that for a while...

would it be similar for the OS giken two way in the front? :(

Yeah i'd say so - the only concern it if it gets cooked, but synths handle heat a lot better as well. If you're paranoid get the oil tested, say after 20,000 and then you'll get an indication of how long it lasts under 800hp of punishment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346240-diff-oil-change/#findComment-5576481
Share on other sites

Best time to know when it needs changing is when it goes black, when my mechanic changed every drivetrain fluid (front & rear diff, attessa, transfer case, gearbox, clutch, brakes), all of them were black, except for the front diff which still looked brandnew. I'm guessing because the ATTESSA system is a part-time system, the front diff could go alot longer without changing than the rear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346240-diff-oil-change/#findComment-5578283
Share on other sites

Best time to know when it needs changing is when it goes black, when my mechanic changed every drivetrain fluid (front & rear diff, attessa, transfer case, gearbox, clutch, brakes), all of them were black, except for the front diff which still looked brandnew. I'm guessing because the ATTESSA system is a part-time system, the front diff could go alot longer without changing than the rear.

yeah that may be the case normally, but I think my front does more work than normal, spins all 4 a bit when boost hits in first, and I have torque split controller, so put more to the front than factory.

But if I'm going to the effort of getting the car on a hoist or off the ground enough to check diff oils, I'll just change them for the cost of a bit of oil. i like the idea of getting it tested at 20k or there abouts, then I'll know if its still good, just started doing this with the engine oil and its well worth the $35, I'd recommend everyone does it, gives you some handy info about your motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346240-diff-oil-change/#findComment-5578336
Share on other sites

man i wouldnt worrie about it aye, change it but dont worrie about changing it all the time, every 50k's maybe id leave it longer. with 800hp behide it the oil isnt gunna save it, no matter how new it is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346240-diff-oil-change/#findComment-5578485
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...