Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, need some feedback...

I'm about to swap the turbine housing on my disco potato, I need your advice on getting the old one off.

Any tips or tricks regarding undoing the seized up, rusty old bolts? They seem pretty hard to undo without damaging the threads, I'm worried I'm gonna skip a thread or something cos they are pretty stiff.

Heat? anti-seize? WD-40?

Also, how much difference is the .86 likely to yield over the .64? I'm running 10psi (by about 2250rpm on a 2.5L) atm and it makes about 200awkw, I'm not expecting the peak figure to change much, just want to know if the midrange is going to change that much...

Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346570-turbine-housing-swap/
Share on other sites

Plenty of wd40, leave to saok, and work the bolts back and forward. If you arent expecting to make more power, why are you changing up a housing?

Boost control problem. Narrowed it down to the .64 housing being too small and is choking the motor (ignition timing is very retarded - about 1-2 degrees on full boost). 10psi was creeping up to 15psi+ towards redline so the housing doesn't flow enough gas around the turbine wheel.

So I've bought the .86 housing hoping it'll flow a fair bit more and an external gate set-up (manifold, gate, custom dump and screamer)

I'll give the WD-40 a try, but is it dangerous having a flammable liquid chillin on the housing, then getting it up to heat? i.e. driving around after spraying WD40.

Had the same issue on my 3037, WD was the ticket. Dont worry about heating it up (for both flame on reasons and expecting it to unseize).

Heating it up is likely to heat up the bolts first which will make them tighter in theory.. Which really is the whole issue to begin with (heat and expansion + corrosion causing them to seize).

Can I ask, why not simply move to a .86 IW housing? I dont forsee a major gain moving to EX gate on this setup, especially not a feasible one. Im sure others will agree.

As for results, peak power may change slightly. Torque delivery will be dramatically different and you should be able to wind some more timing into it. I dare say the issue you are having is the static CR.

Could you elaborate on your current manifold setup? Pics? And also of your dump.

Cheers,

  • Like 1

Turns out they were actually pretty easy... They were tight, but not impossible :) WD definitely helped. I sprayed all the bolts and went for a long drive, then the next morning i sprayed them again and by lunchtime they were being undone. After about 180deg each, they were all finger worthy!

The new .86 housing feels more progressive now, and builds towards the top end rather than falling off. I havn't taken it for a big drive, so havn't seen if it's fixed the boost creep. I adjusted the actuator rod pre-tension for 10psi. I'll give it some shit on the way back from work tonight, and see if it's creeping still...

Scott, I have the .86 IW housing now, but the manifold is the problem, it always has been. When it was made it was made too high. My friend didn't take into account the bonnet clearance very well. It only sit about 20mm from the bonnet which, if i have any chance at getting it all legal, I'm sure will be a problem that an engineer will spot. And yeah, the ignition timing will be adjusted by my tuner, i don't have knock ears or a knock block so I don't wanna even try to adjust it on the street. The static CR is 9.5-9.9:1, I've never been able to get a straight answer from anyone re: x-trail QR25 CR. The QR in the Sentra Spec V is 9.5 then 10.5 on the new version, but I'm not 100% sure on my engine. Wiki says 9.5, redbook says 9.9 and two different Nissan techs told me 9.5 and 9.9...

I'm upgrading the manifold/changing to external wastegate for better boost control, neater engine bay, no more heat problems from the dump on the thermo fans, new 3" dump and plus, I wanna have some fun with a screamer :) (apologies to the fun police).

Current manifold:

DSC01089.jpg

DSC01087.jpg

New manifold:

photo.jpg

photo2.jpg

Before anyone asks, no I don't know the diameter of the primaries on the manifold. either way, it doesn't flow that well, this new one without a doubt flows more.

My dump is a 2.5" stainless bellmouth. I could only do 2.5" due to space restraints. This new manifold will make way for a 3" too, so that's another reason for the upgrade.

P1000855.jpg

That's the best pic I've got though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...