Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, need some feedback...

I'm about to swap the turbine housing on my disco potato, I need your advice on getting the old one off.

Any tips or tricks regarding undoing the seized up, rusty old bolts? They seem pretty hard to undo without damaging the threads, I'm worried I'm gonna skip a thread or something cos they are pretty stiff.

Heat? anti-seize? WD-40?

Also, how much difference is the .86 likely to yield over the .64? I'm running 10psi (by about 2250rpm on a 2.5L) atm and it makes about 200awkw, I'm not expecting the peak figure to change much, just want to know if the midrange is going to change that much...

Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346570-turbine-housing-swap/
Share on other sites

Plenty of wd40, leave to saok, and work the bolts back and forward. If you arent expecting to make more power, why are you changing up a housing?

Boost control problem. Narrowed it down to the .64 housing being too small and is choking the motor (ignition timing is very retarded - about 1-2 degrees on full boost). 10psi was creeping up to 15psi+ towards redline so the housing doesn't flow enough gas around the turbine wheel.

So I've bought the .86 housing hoping it'll flow a fair bit more and an external gate set-up (manifold, gate, custom dump and screamer)

I'll give the WD-40 a try, but is it dangerous having a flammable liquid chillin on the housing, then getting it up to heat? i.e. driving around after spraying WD40.

Had the same issue on my 3037, WD was the ticket. Dont worry about heating it up (for both flame on reasons and expecting it to unseize).

Heating it up is likely to heat up the bolts first which will make them tighter in theory.. Which really is the whole issue to begin with (heat and expansion + corrosion causing them to seize).

Can I ask, why not simply move to a .86 IW housing? I dont forsee a major gain moving to EX gate on this setup, especially not a feasible one. Im sure others will agree.

As for results, peak power may change slightly. Torque delivery will be dramatically different and you should be able to wind some more timing into it. I dare say the issue you are having is the static CR.

Could you elaborate on your current manifold setup? Pics? And also of your dump.

Cheers,

  • Like 1

Turns out they were actually pretty easy... They were tight, but not impossible :) WD definitely helped. I sprayed all the bolts and went for a long drive, then the next morning i sprayed them again and by lunchtime they were being undone. After about 180deg each, they were all finger worthy!

The new .86 housing feels more progressive now, and builds towards the top end rather than falling off. I havn't taken it for a big drive, so havn't seen if it's fixed the boost creep. I adjusted the actuator rod pre-tension for 10psi. I'll give it some shit on the way back from work tonight, and see if it's creeping still...

Scott, I have the .86 IW housing now, but the manifold is the problem, it always has been. When it was made it was made too high. My friend didn't take into account the bonnet clearance very well. It only sit about 20mm from the bonnet which, if i have any chance at getting it all legal, I'm sure will be a problem that an engineer will spot. And yeah, the ignition timing will be adjusted by my tuner, i don't have knock ears or a knock block so I don't wanna even try to adjust it on the street. The static CR is 9.5-9.9:1, I've never been able to get a straight answer from anyone re: x-trail QR25 CR. The QR in the Sentra Spec V is 9.5 then 10.5 on the new version, but I'm not 100% sure on my engine. Wiki says 9.5, redbook says 9.9 and two different Nissan techs told me 9.5 and 9.9...

I'm upgrading the manifold/changing to external wastegate for better boost control, neater engine bay, no more heat problems from the dump on the thermo fans, new 3" dump and plus, I wanna have some fun with a screamer :) (apologies to the fun police).

Current manifold:

DSC01089.jpg

DSC01087.jpg

New manifold:

photo.jpg

photo2.jpg

Before anyone asks, no I don't know the diameter of the primaries on the manifold. either way, it doesn't flow that well, this new one without a doubt flows more.

My dump is a 2.5" stainless bellmouth. I could only do 2.5" due to space restraints. This new manifold will make way for a 3" too, so that's another reason for the upgrade.

P1000855.jpg

That's the best pic I've got though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...