Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im building one in the next few weeks for a customer

I have already finished the head

It showed up as 308 hp on paul gilberts flow bench, with 85 % exhaust flow

It has itb,s on it with a turbo and an hks scavenge tank

We are just using the std cam at this point but will look at some thing else later

It has haltech going on with 550cc injectors we are looking for 350 at the wheels

What's the big deal about Horsepower?

If you're doing a big bore L28, your going to need an N42 block and be sure to have it Sonic tested to be sure the bores are thick enough after the 3.0mm over bore. The common thought is to use the siamesed F54 block, but I will be very surprised to see any F54 block capable of taking an 89.0mm bore and the N42 block has a higher silicone content.

This L31 engine has been done to bits and very well documented online, but turbo is not normally the way to go, because the bore becomes a bit thin and under high boost pressure, the bores are porous.

I'm doing an 87.0mm bore (2818cc) 380 injectors, about 250HP @ wheels and over 600Nm torque, so who needs HP.

Your going to need; LD28 diesel crank, L24E rods, KA24E pistons for your bottom end. Rods should be chromoly or H beam forged & pistons forged to KA24E specs.

Cheers, D

What's the big deal about Horsepower?

If you're doing a big bore L28, your going to need an N42 block and be sure to have it Sonic tested to be sure the bores are thick enough after the 3.0mm over bore. The common thought is to use the siamesed F54 block, but I will be very surprised to see any F54 block capable of taking an 89.0mm bore and the N42 block has a higher silicone content.

This L31 engine has been done to bits and very well documented online, but turbo is not normally the way to go, because the bore becomes a bit thin and under high boost pressure, the bores are porous.

I'm doing an 87.0mm bore (2818cc) 380 injectors, about 250HP @ wheels and over 600Nm torque, so who needs HP.

Your going to need; LD28 diesel crank, L24E rods, KA24E pistons for your bottom end. Rods should be chromoly or H beam forged & pistons forged to KA24E specs.

Cheers, D

A'MEN

........OR

buy an OS Giken 3.1L and fuel inject it and turbOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO it :)

would i be better off resleeving an l28 and adding an ld28 crank and suitable rods/pistons? least then il no how much meat ive got left in the bores?

also what head would u reccommend?

thanks for the replies appreciate the advice

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...