Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im building one in the next few weeks for a customer

I have already finished the head

It showed up as 308 hp on paul gilberts flow bench, with 85 % exhaust flow

It has itb,s on it with a turbo and an hks scavenge tank

We are just using the std cam at this point but will look at some thing else later

It has haltech going on with 550cc injectors we are looking for 350 at the wheels

What's the big deal about Horsepower?

If you're doing a big bore L28, your going to need an N42 block and be sure to have it Sonic tested to be sure the bores are thick enough after the 3.0mm over bore. The common thought is to use the siamesed F54 block, but I will be very surprised to see any F54 block capable of taking an 89.0mm bore and the N42 block has a higher silicone content.

This L31 engine has been done to bits and very well documented online, but turbo is not normally the way to go, because the bore becomes a bit thin and under high boost pressure, the bores are porous.

I'm doing an 87.0mm bore (2818cc) 380 injectors, about 250HP @ wheels and over 600Nm torque, so who needs HP.

Your going to need; LD28 diesel crank, L24E rods, KA24E pistons for your bottom end. Rods should be chromoly or H beam forged & pistons forged to KA24E specs.

Cheers, D

What's the big deal about Horsepower?

If you're doing a big bore L28, your going to need an N42 block and be sure to have it Sonic tested to be sure the bores are thick enough after the 3.0mm over bore. The common thought is to use the siamesed F54 block, but I will be very surprised to see any F54 block capable of taking an 89.0mm bore and the N42 block has a higher silicone content.

This L31 engine has been done to bits and very well documented online, but turbo is not normally the way to go, because the bore becomes a bit thin and under high boost pressure, the bores are porous.

I'm doing an 87.0mm bore (2818cc) 380 injectors, about 250HP @ wheels and over 600Nm torque, so who needs HP.

Your going to need; LD28 diesel crank, L24E rods, KA24E pistons for your bottom end. Rods should be chromoly or H beam forged & pistons forged to KA24E specs.

Cheers, D

A'MEN

........OR

buy an OS Giken 3.1L and fuel inject it and turbOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO it :)

would i be better off resleeving an l28 and adding an ld28 crank and suitable rods/pistons? least then il no how much meat ive got left in the bores?

also what head would u reccommend?

thanks for the replies appreciate the advice

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...