Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

Just a quick question.....on my r33 the rev limiter has been removed - what is causing my rev limiter to not be there? can you reprogram the stock ecu and remove it? do you have to have an aftermarket ECU to remove the rev limiter? Would appreciate any comments.

Cheers

Billy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34711-rev-limiter-seems-to-be-removed/
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

Billy usally it is the cause of a modded ecu alot of jap brand do re-programmed ecus the more common ones are mines blitz etc...So if u have a sec check passenger side kick panel to see if it has any stickers on it, or even broken factory labels which could show some sort of modding on the inside of the ecu.

Also your rpm guage could be out abit so it may seem that the rpm limiter is not kicking in but in fact its still there only 200rpms away. See how you go..a couple threads are around on aftermarket ecu goodies that people have found on/in there ecu's a while ago.

I'm not saying there is a problem- Car drives perfectly, i just wanted to know what could cause the the rev limiter to be removed, but yer you could take it all the way up to 9 if you really wanted to; not that you would want to i'm sure something would give way!

I honestly don't see a problem with this.

If you don't feel or hear your car doing 7,000rpm you shouldn't be driving.

T.

Well it's like this...

4,000rpm is great for urban scooting. You're already well into the turbo, fuel is ok, you're up to 50-60km/h in mere seconds. Mr. VN Commodore is still messing with his torque converter.

5,000rpm is good for higher speed runs say merging speeds in hwy. ramps. Do you want that semi trailer to just disappear? No problem.

6,000rpm is getting serious - you're WELL over the speed limit, the car is into the power band, everyone around you knows to just stay away, they all move out of the right lane because something VERY FAST is coming thru. Fuel consumption is out the window.

7,000rpm is WSID drag strip or 'da runs bro'...

T.

Thnx for the input champ; i think i may have misworded my question a bit - i understand the rev ranges etc - however my rev limiter is removed and i can rev past 7K, and i guess even to 9K if you were game; so far i've accidentally taken it up to around 8K just briefly before changing gears. I now understand that there must be some sort of ECU chip or aftermarket ECU controlling this.

Well it's like this...

4,000rpm is great for urban scooting. You're already well into the turbo, fuel is ok, you're up to 50-60km/h in mere seconds. Mr. VN Commodore is still messing with his torque converter.

5,000rpm is good for higher speed runs say merging speeds in hwy. ramps. Do you want that semi trailer to just disappear? No problem.

6,000rpm is getting serious - you're WELL over the speed limit, the car is into the power band, everyone around you knows to just stay away, they all move out of the right lane because something VERY FAST is coming thru. Fuel consumption is out the window.

7,000rpm is WSID drag strip or 'da runs bro'...

T.

Cheers for the input mate; yeh the rev limiter is definately removed, you still accelerate nicely after 7K. My mates skyline has rev limiter that cuts him off at the stock 7K mark- once u reach 7K it just bounces off the rev limiter.

Billy usally it is the cause of a modded ecu alot of jap brand do re-programmed ecus the more common ones are mines blitz etc...So if u have a sec check passenger side kick panel to see if it has any stickers on it, or even broken factory labels which could show some sort of modding on the inside of the ecu.

Also your rpm guage could be out abit so it may seem that the rpm limiter is not kicking in but in fact its still there only 200rpms away. See how you go..a couple threads are around on aftermarket ecu goodies that people have found on/in there ecu's a while ago.

It's hard to say.

I've seen CPU's with the obvious 'Mines' or some sticker on it and it's obviously chipped.

Others you might have to open up and seem if it looks like it's been soldered up backyard style.

Others even might have the whole circuit system covered in resin to avoid tampering!

T.

Tony,

Oh i see...so i'dhave to unplug my ECU and take it out and have a look? is it safe to do so though? Also; say its a chipped ecu - how much are the chips normally? are they expensive or relatively cheap?

Cheers

It's hard to say.

I've seen CPU's with the obvious 'Mines' or some sticker on it and it's obviously chipped.

Others you might have to open up and seem if it looks like it's been soldered up backyard style.

Others even might have the whole circuit system covered in resin to avoid tampering!

T.

The ECU is a steel box with the boards inside.

As long as the car is off, it's perfectly safe to pull out and have a look. I'd advise against opening it unless you're at least competant with say building a standard desktop computer or have used a soldering iron before.

Be advised that a dead ECU = a dead car (until you can get a 'new' ECU from the wreckers etc.)

The story is that the Japanese might bring their car to a famous shop (Mines, HKS etc.)

They want a certain number of mods at the price.

They can choose a fully programmable computer like my PowerFC.

Or they can choose a CPU like an R32 type unit which is rewritable.

Or they stick with the R33 unit and their electrical engineers modify the ECU to control the mods that they fit.

The bad thing is that you can only bring the ECU back to the original shop for adjust (obviously we can't do that in Aust.) - so if you have an ECU which is a 'fixed' program like the ECU's written for Japanese 100+ RON unleaded petrol, well they are useless in Australia.

T.

something interesting to happened to me about 4 weeks ago....

my rev limiter used to kick in around 6500, but after resetting my ecu 4 weeks ago i am not even sure it kicks in anymore...i only have taken it to 7000 or just a bit over, and cant feel it like before....

i had a quick look at the comp without taking it out, no stickers but the nissan label has been removed and stuck back on....

also the engine seems to be running leaner, as i am getting more k's to a full tank and dont have that lovely exhaust popage :) but there is power loss from 5000 till 7000 compared to before the reset....it almost feels like the comp has lost its modified program...which i know is not possible!!

anyone have any ideas???

my ecu has been modded with a higher rev limit.. and im glad it does have one, cos sometimes get a bit too eager on the burnouts and forget to watch the tacho..

anyway, lots of the chipped ECU's have stickers on the back, which means u need to undo the 3 x 10mm bolts holding the ecu brackets on to the car.. only takes 2 mins to check.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...