Jump to content
SAU Community

Building A Head (25/26)

carpark

By carpark,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

the car will run with out VCT will just be a bit doughy down low, if you want the GTR plenum then you will need the RB26 fuel rail and injectors to suit, if you use the GReddy plenum then either the standard RB25DE or RB26 rail will work but the topfeed RB26 injectors will need collars made up to fit.

You can modify the 25 injectors and use them

rb26zed Enthusiast

rb26zed

Posted
Posted

Why does every thread in the NA section have somebody repeat for the millionth time how NA's are not value for money and that a turbo will make far more power for less money. Everybody knows this and are really sick of reading about turbos in the NA section.

People post in the NA section for a reason. If your answer to every question is to turbo and not waste your money with NA's maybe you're in the wrong section.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Have a cry mate.

We say it BECAUSE Every thread in here is the same old story i.e Im on my P's I want to go fast but cant have a turbo

We are trying to help people not waste thousands of $$ for a handful of horsepower

rb26zed Enthusiast

rb26zed

Posted
Posted

It's been said too many times. Nobody cares. If your answer is turbo then really your help is not wanted.

"We are trying to help people not waste thousands of $$ for a handful of horsepower"

There are many reasons people would want to NA over turbo. Not everyone wants 600hp. NA's sound cool, they have old school appeal, they 'fit' better in certain cars, they can be easier to modify without being too obvious (sometimes). Those are just a few reasons.

Honestly why are you here anyway, you have 2 toyotas and believe turbos are the answer to every problem. Yet here you are as always patrolling the NA skyline section.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

It's been said too many times. Nobody cares. If your answer is turbo then really your help is not wanted.

"We are trying to help people not waste thousands of $$ for a handful of horsepower"

There are many reasons people would want to NA over turbo. Not everyone wants 600hp. NA's sound cool, they have old school appeal, they 'fit' better in certain cars, they can be easier to modify without being too obvious (sometimes). Those are just a few reasons.

Honestly why are you here anyway, you have 2 toyotas and believe turbos are the answer to every problem. Yet here you are as always patrolling the NA skyline section.

Yep I have two toyotas...so fkn what!

I love NA engines, but an NA RB in a R33 is just fkn stupid when there is a factory turbo option.....If you pull your head out of your ass and look up a few posts you will see I gave advice on what I would do if I was going to build an NA RB25..

SO STFU do some reading and you might learn something.

rb26zed Enthusiast

rb26zed

Posted
Posted

I did read that and yes you do often give some useful info, but not before you spin the same old turbo crap that this NA section is full of.

Please don't patronise me mate.

Give NA advice but leave the turbo crap in the turbo section.

For the record I have both a turbo and an NA.

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

sounds like you've been driving the NA too much :)

at the end of the day with NAs you can spend 20k on the motor and make all of 10-15hp, its just not worth it for anyone with any sanity. that link i posted on the first page (for those that can view it) is a perfect example, hes spent over 20k on a 30DE and makes about 25kw more than a 30E with an exhaust

best thing P platers can do is save up all their money and wait until they're off P's

rb26zed Enthusiast

rb26zed

Posted
Posted

You can spend 20k on anything and get poor results if you make bad decisions. 20k on an NA RB should easily be around if not over 300hp.

The point is this is not a turbo vz NA thread. It's an NA thread in the NA section. Stop talking about turbos in it.

And Jonno yes I have been driving the NA far too much and for far too long, lol, turbos are money pits too.

Sensible decisions are left at the door when you are into modified cars. My advice is waste your money making your NA go faster, have fun and learn lots. Then when you're finished your P's sell it at a loss and waste your money on a turbo.

carpark Explorer

carpark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes thank you rb26zed

Im not looking for people trying to convince me turbos are a cheaper way of more performance.

i know that this is true, but i dont want a turbo or i would of made a thread in the how to turbo a N/A section?

commodore or falcoon? its not all about power the main reason everyone buys a skyline is handling and brakes.

so when u can get a VN with cut springs that are zip tyed in to handle like a 33 with coilovers and a camber kit send me a PM

waxracing Experienced

waxracing

Posted
Posted

I love what you are thinking about doing. Personally I would use an rb30 bottom end with 25de pistons it will pump the compression up and they will be very cheap if you have to pay for them at all.

use the stock rb30 oil pump just make sure its ok, a quick inspection will fix that.

Bolt the rb26 head on you have about 10.5:1 now

use the itb,s for that look so cool factor and the lovely noise they will make.

Your going to have to fork for some decent cams to help it pick up the mid to top end range. As long as you dont rev it to hard this engine will be reliable and go very well.

You will not be able to run it off a 26 ecu but if you get an de-jetro power fc it should do it just fine.

get a set of rb30 headers and cut the flange off you will be able to weld an rb26 flange on there the port spacing is the same and away you go.

It will be an awesome project dont let people convince you other wise. Sure its not going to be as fast as a boosted engine but it will be way cooler for sure and the sound will make up for it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...