Jump to content
SAU Community

Standard Exhaust Manifold

ronnydotk

By ronnydotk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

Would RB25DET and RB26DETT need to pass euro 4 or only the emissions standards of the time they were produced or the R32 was made?

my RB30 is engineered and emissions legal according to NSW and ACT requirements (car is from 94) and the emissions components of the engine dont change from the RB25, so its required to meet the 1994 emissions levels which are far more relaxed than euro 3 & 4.

i am not sure if the VIC system treats them differently.

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

The IM240 testing regime has been ditched for about 4 months now, they are using the 5 gas test to pass cars now.

If anyone has Zoom mag issue 146 (with the orange 764hp CA18 datto on the cover), read my 2 page article on pg 96/97 about it...

yer i know, just saying.

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

yer i know, just saying.

thank fk it's gone hey!

IM240 was a prime example of the government trying to be smart, and failing.

"Oh yeah I'll just take my AWD car to KEC to get the test done, wait! ... They don't have an AWD dyno..."

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

OK so i spent a few hours reading today... And have come to the follow conclusions thus far:

ALL ECU’s must be tested for compliance, LA2 clearly states this is a requirement, so its full ADR.

You have two distinct elements of engineering to deal with as a part of LA2.

1. The replacement motor itself.

2. Emission testing the RB30DET with all the aftermarket parts. It must go via the LT3 & LT4 as a part of LA2

Now as it stands. Part 1 - “LA2” is nothing more than a simple VASS Cert in Victoria. Costing around $600 and then you are done.

Piece of cake really, and exactly how I had my RB26 registered into the GTSR.

Part 2 of LA2 is the absolute mongrel, paperwork minefield and overall waste of time.

You need to get the full ADR testing, and then the same for the exhaust. That is a massive amount of time and money.

Once you do that, and only once you do that – are you fully engineered and totally safe from defects.

OR you can do just Part 1, just like everyone else. As it’s just a “VASS”.

Issue is you can’t modify and as soon as you do, it ends up with the EPA getting all funky on you time and time again.

Given you want to use a heap of obviously mods, you will get reamed, and they will probably take photo’s of your engine bay.

If you use a 26 head, you’ll basically be undetectable with only ECU/Injectors requiring a swap…

And that’s IF they pick it… As there are ways around that of course.

I'll do some more reading on ALL the ADR stuff over the next 2-3 weeks, it'll take me a while given I've got functions/booze sessions almost everyday from now till NYD :D

ronnydotk Contributor

ronnydotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks nismoid. Yeah the exhaust noise and emissions test would be too hard.

I think after all this i've decided to change pathways. go with r32 gts-t and put rb26dett in. as you said low mount gt2860's will be stealth... then it's only vass ticket i'll need (if a bit sneaky)

damn vicroads and the fun-police

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I know you're leaning towards a 26 now but just going back to your original proposed setup, I'm not sure a plazmaman plenum on a 25/30 will fit under the bonnet.. there's not a lot of room and the plazmaman plenum retains the factory runners (it bolts on top of the runners). Better bet is to go with a GReddy plenum, I couldn't find one for my setup (R32 RB25DE head, so RB20 style) so made up a custom plenum with GTR chamber welded to RB20 runners.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

he wants to avoid legal issues.

that item is stand out like dogs balls obvious.

a good condition 26. -9 turbos, 300rwkw easily... and virtually defect free vs a similar result, and more headache then its worth.

if you've never lived/dealt with the Vic rules, police and EPA then you rarely appreciate just how bad it is.

i was defected not 6 weeks ago for semi slicks... which were totally legal.

end of the day the Vic police do what they want, thanks to Steve Bracks and his bullshit 'hoon' campaigns.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

he wants to avoid legal issues.

that item is stand out like dogs balls obvious.

a good condition 26. -9 turbos, 300rwkw easily... and virtually defect free vs a similar result, and more headache then its worth.

if you've never lived/dealt with the Vic rules, police and EPA then you rarely appreciate just how bad it is.

i was defected not 6 weeks ago for semi slicks... which were totally legal.

end of the day the Vic police do what they want, thanks to Steve Bracks and his bullshit 'hoon' campaigns.

I realise this and appreciate that is why he is now leaning towards the 26.

I was addressing the plazmaman plenum on an RB30DET purely from a spacial standpoint.

At the end of the day, you can still get stickered for semi-slicks here in WA, you can get stickered for anything if the cops don't understand it.

Hell, when my 32 was defected (just after I dropped the 3L in and hadn't legalised it yet), one of the items on the list was for my STOCK BOV!

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

yeah but you can get legal, and then take them to court.

we can't get legal, so you'll never win.

It still won't stop an officer on the side of the road from putting another defect notice on it. Even with permits, the cops only need to suspect that something has changed to send you back to the pits.

But I'm not some teenage little shit so I don't get hassled and rarely get looked :)

P.S. move to WA where RB30DET's are easy to legalise :D

ronnydotk Contributor

ronnydotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not a teenager either...

However when i was a teenager i used to drive my datsun 1200 ute with custom made turbo setup (T25G) daily around bendigo ("the hoon capital") and never once got pulled over for it. Even with p's up!!!

Goes to show it's not what you drive but how you drive it and when you drive it. I drove it to and from work everyday for 12months and never got pulled over, while my mates would go out in their "sick vn bro" on a saturday night and cut laps and sure as eggs get canaried!

Anyway this is all way off topic now. Quite a bit of good info in here though

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

There is a lot of info in the EPA / Roadworthy thread in the Vic Section too mate.

I've tried to answer as much as I can over the years as I've had EPA's, Canaries, trips to court (to challenge the defects)... You name it (and im 28 now).

Also had at length chats to the EPA officers on many occasions about various issues as well as a few VASS Engineers.

It's interesting the things they will tell you if you aren't the typical dumb ass-hat that comes in there and wants to argue with them or tell you the sorry story of how the officer EPA'd you lol :)

SirRacer Experienced

SirRacer

Posted
Posted

Consensus seems to be 300rwkw is the point where you need to be looking for a new exhaust manifold. Don't get a cheap Stainless one - get a 6boost or a Sinco customs:

post-49463-0-42519500-1292252377_thumb.jpg

Nice manifold! Mine was one of Mikes first merged ones and the car he did half his testing on. Hes probably told you the overboost story, and yeah that was my thing not holding boost.

Was thinking about moving to Aussie due to better job opportunities but think i might stay in NZ. My 350kw car is perfectly legal on the roads with big wastegate, turbo etc. Its a shame really that you guys get put through the ringer for wanting to modify a car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...