Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

im stuck & need advice...i am not happy with my r32gtr shell so im pulling all of my running gear out of it & tossing the shell - more than likely will keep the engine as it owes me 25k & probably sell the interior, diff etc.

i am on the search & here are my 2 options (both are at similar price point):

1. red 94 r32gtr: forged bottom end, -5's, nismo wheels

OR

2. white 94 r32gtr vspec2: stock bottom end, -7's, volk wheels

which would be a better buy? i can see that i'd make more money from selling the forged engine etc on the red gtr, however, the vspec2 is more of an icon & better for resale i guess...what are your thoughts? this is doing my head in ARRRRGH :)

i can also say that the red gtr is cleaner, but the white gtr just needs a bit of tlc to have it look as nice

regards

marko

i put together a quick analysis & after selling parts i'd naturally get a lot more back with the red gtr...the difference is over 5k

from this, it will cost me an additional 5k to have a vspec2 which doesn't sound too bad really...

VS2 and how good are you at haggling? VINs noted and Checked for rust?

BTW, how do you know that the 2 owners aren't on SAU (assuming these are already in Oz)? If they are, they'll vote for their own car eh? :P

hi all,

i had the white vspec2 inspected a few days ago, the chassis rails & sills are badly pushed in...can these be repaired or should i stay clear?

also has rust under the n1 boot lid (on the actual boot lid itself, rust straight thru), under the passenger mirror in the door sill itself, rear 1/4 guard arch & the bonnet paint is lifting off the alloy bonnet near the n1 front lip, wtf!

i also looked at the red gtr (non vspec) & the condition is incredible - very nice indeed :) reminds me of my aust delivered gtr which i had a few yrs back

Yes chassis rails can be repaired depending on how badly damaged they are. The can also be replaced but both repairing and replacing is a big job. I think your better off going with the normal GTR for the same price cause if you get the V-spec its going to cost a fair bit of coin to get it all fixed up to a standard that your happy with the car

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...