Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the pic. Well certainly near the same amount of adjustment left on yours as i have. The springs in my actuators must just be weak. Will look at replacing them, although i may look into shortening the arms for a little more adjustment.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Justin's suggestion is good. Wire them shut and see if they build boost properly. If they do then yeah the actuators are the problem.

CRD found a bunch of crap in my intercooler when they installed my turbos..... WhereTF did that come from??!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Well update time... STILL no good!

I have installed brand new 1 bar actuators and i am still having the same problem. Really thought it was solved as the actuator arms i pulled off the turbos were much much easier to pull on than the new ones.

In 4th at ~4k it will only make 0.6 - 0.7 bar... if i rev it more it continues to rise very slowly before i back off.

So...

- I have disconnected the actuator lines and had a run = exactly the same. So it is certainly NOT the ebc.

- Oil pissed out of both lines when the feeds were taken off to change the actuators so turbos are getting oil.

- There are NO leaks in the cooler piping & definitely no blockage/rags in there.

Basically there is nothing left but the tune..? I was under the impression i should be able to make the boost spike using the previous method regardless as its mechanical?

Could incorrectly set up nismo AFM's cause this somehow? Injectors were also upgraded pre-tune.

Starting to really regret not just slapping a single on! :whistling:

yeah I doubt it's the tune too. if you have tried the unlimited boost trick it should boost hard and fast. it's possible a REALLY bad tune could do this but it would have to be so very, very bad.

Drives just as well as with it connected.

I am starting to wonder if my base timing is out. I did ask the tuner to set it originally, obviously he should of before the tune... but i am running out of things to try here as you can see.

I swapped my engine covers when i swapped the turbos and was unable to set the timing right as it would hunt at idle post injector install. In fact i tried last night and it is still hunting?

Setting the pre-load up on the gates made a HUGE difference to low end, but it was tuned without this.. and possibly with timing out also. Hence suspecting tune.

Yes, i read the whole thread.

I will repeat myself, have you made sure the wastegate flaps on both turbos are fully closed/shut? pretty sure you need the dump pipes off to check this rather than checking how much the flap moves from the exterior arm that the actuator rod attaches to.

I have seen a brand new garret rear housing with a wastegate flap that didnt fully seal against the seat from factory because the hole for the arm that the rod attaches to was drilled off center. It was sent back to garrett.

Im quite puzzled as to what your problem is but thats most legitimate suggestion i can come up with dude.

It would suck to go to the trouble of taking the turbos back off and checking the flaps and seeing how they actually sit to only find that theres nothing wrong with it but i guess, you gotta do it to know for sure.

I do remember having a look before installing and they were sealed flush. I'd imagine it would be quite obvious to the eye if one wasn't sealed correctly?

I'll try to check the timing tonight as i think i can get a steady idle from cold start & go from there. I appreciate the help guys. :)

Edited by endless

if you back the timing off in the tune down low this can help build boost quicker but by the sounds of it its more a mechanical thing.

pull the front timing cover off and check the cam timing then borrow a timing light and set the CAS timing up,

yep, less timing (within reason) builds boost at lower rpm than more timing. more timing will give you boost quicker time wise and make the car quicker overall but it'll be at slightly higher rpms.

I think setting the timing to 15 degrees then going for a blat would be a bad idea seeing as it has been tuned out 5 degrees, also with the turbo response like shit (which has now been solved) think i'll just take it in for tune to be safe.

Well update time... STILL no good!

I have installed brand new 1 bar actuators and i am still having the same problem. Really thought it was solved as the actuator arms i pulled off the turbos were much much easier to pull on than the new ones.

In 4th at ~4k it will only make 0.6 - 0.7 bar... if i rev it more it continues to rise very slowly before i back off.

So...

- I have disconnected the actuator lines and had a run = exactly the same. So it is certainly NOT the ebc.

- Oil pissed out of both lines when the feeds were taken off to change the actuators so turbos are getting oil.

- There are NO leaks in the cooler piping & definitely no blockage/rags in there.

Basically there is nothing left but the tune..? I was under the impression i should be able to make the boost spike using the previous method regardless as its mechanical?

Could incorrectly set up nismo AFM's cause this somehow? Injectors were also upgraded pre-tune.

Starting to really regret not just slapping a single on! :whistling:

did you pre-load the new ones correctly? i like to use about 10mm preload.

another thing to check is the cooler pipe under passenger front wheel well (common leak spot)

And finally the bov pressure line often gets swapped with another close one and the BOV leaks under boost. (seen this about 5-6 times)

Well checked the timing ..& it's out 5 degrees. :whistling:

are you sure? check your hand controller "live" timing screen then adjust CAS so it reads the same on the balancer. i often change the base timing as do other tuners.

NEVER ASSUME IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE 20 DEGREES

If you have nistune etc then use consult to hold a particular timing whilst setting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...