Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think what Ash is trying to say is: 550rwhp is way to much grunt for the S14 chassis already and combine that with an inexpirenced drive on the track.

I tend to agree, you will be faster to begin with with 400rwhp or less and learn the finer points of going quick on a circuit.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's a fair point, and I appreciate the concern and suggestion for track purposes. Let's hope I'm a better driver than you're giving me credit for, considering I started out on karts at age 5. =D

*edit*

Talk to me a little bit about the factory redline on the RB25DET, what it can be safely increased to without modifications, and the steps required to increase it beyond that? Is increasing the redline required for more power on the engine or should I be seeing my max power more in the 6400 RPM range like the stock setup? I'm obviously seeing my max power at the redline currently, but I think that's because of the turbo compressor map not being ideal for the engine. I suppose the engine flows about 50 at 7500rpm?

Edited by radianation

Also, back to the possible issue of valve float, if you watch in this video, right about the time where the dip is in the power on my dyno chart you see a puff of black smoke from the exhaust. Any clue?

Black puff out the exhaust could be ping causing the carbon to be cleaned off the combustion chamber and coming out the exhaust :(

I am sure if the guy is fine with the car at 420whp, he's got the peddling to deal with a high power S14 and has an idea of what the chassis copes with a bit of power like.

For the higher power level you are after I'd have thought bigger cams etc would be a good idea too.

honestly i agree with the 3076 idea...

run e85 and you can see ~350rwkw with brilliant response

i run an HKS 2835 pro s and on e85 i see 323rwkw (432rwhp) with 20psi by 3400

the on/off throttle response is blistering for a 2.5 litre and a 3076 with a good manifold on sugarcubes should see you to ~470rwhp with similar response

ima post my dyno graph to show the difference between 98 and e85.

this is the same tuner, same car, same dyno, same day, different fuel:

med_gallery_36777_3194_124976.jpg

with the 3076 setup you'd end up with something similar to this response wise but with more power

I could always take that in steps. If the power isn't there on pump gas after the turbo swap I just change fuel... Or do you think I should change fuel now and see how the current turbo does?

I had a friend consult Garrett Marketing/Engineers directly and here is their suggestion / response:

So, we made some assumptions about the engine.

It is running an air-to-air intercooler.

4 valves/cylinder for .9 volumetric efficiency

It will be using pump gas (though I did try the match with a few different A/F ratios)

It will be used near Louisville with an average barometric pressure of 14.37 and an average temp of 55* F

Actual crank horsepower is approximately 675 accounting for a 20% drivetrain loss to give the 550 RWHP target

Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) of 0.46

From what we can see, a 2.5L will have a difficult time making 675 HP at 20 psi without running really rich (I got it there at 9.2:1). However, a more sober 10.5:1 A/F ratio delivers the power at a pressure ratio of 2.8, or 25 psi gauge. This will give the target 675 crank HP at 7500 RPM. Intake manifold temps should hover around 129*, and torque should be 473 lb/ft.

Now, which turbo? Both of the choices Andrew listed would work. The GT3582R will make the power, but the bigger wheels are going to make it a little laggier. Plus, I don’t feel like the added volume is totally necessary given that it is a 2.5L and back pressure shouldn’t be an issue. My choice would be the GTX3076R, not only because it is the hawtness right now, but also because it will be faster reacting and will still deliver the power at ~73-75% efficiency. You’ll be closer to the choke flow line of the map, so the real power will be right smack dab in the heart of the map where you want it. Also, there are three A/R’s for turbine housing sizing. I’m feeling like the larger 1.06 might be the best way to go, but it is kind of guess and check with the turbine housing A/R sizing. The only caution I would have in using the GTX3076R is to watch for surge. I don’t think that it will happen, but there is a better chance of it occurring with this turbo than the GT3582R.

I think I'm going to go with the GTX3076R per the recommendations both on this forum and from the manufacturer. However, I'm not sure which A/R at this point.

Stop have a look at the airwerx series by borgwarner first

The s200sx is like the 3076 but the extended tip allows it to spool sooner.

Its also not ball bearing so you can rebuild it if you need to

Stop have a look at the airwerx series by borgwarner first

The s200sx is like the 3076 but the extended tip allows it to spool sooner.

Its also not ball bearing so you can rebuild it if you need to

If I wan gonna get a BW, It'd be the newer EFR series 4 sure.

Later they added this comment, which is more inline with what I was thinking...

Two small notes about the turbo, one change and one advise.

Rather than the 1.06 A/R, I’ve looked at back pressure numbers and a 0.82 A/R would be fine and get into boost between 500-1000 rpm sooner. A little back pressure isn’t necessarily a bad thing for track and autocross either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can ship Nismo floor mats to you: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/nismo-floor-mats-for-skyline-r33-bcnr33-stagea-wgnc34?_pos=1&_sid=9278c1467&_ss=r  
    • Here's the link: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6642/misc/G49?frame_no=WGNC34-137122 What you think about it? The same product i found on nengun: https://www.nengun.com/oem/parts/40567/MiPwn5qAMfCfmpxHNDnwn5q9MDAx8J-QiW9sZC1qcC0xMTAtRzQ5LS0wMDE/Floor+Carpet+%2F+Mat+2/0688339eba149c19 Bot i have spoken to 😅 ensured me, that mats are 100% original, oem product. I have my doubts. I also heard what you mentioned, that nengun often offers items that are actual not available... On the other hand mats i found on japanese yahoo or ebay are in poor condition and still quite expensive so i'd rather wait for some better offers. My location - Poland. We literaly don't have ANY market for used Stagea parts so need to search outside Europe.
    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
×
×
  • Create New...