Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Picked Up My R32 N/a

phivrne

By phivrne,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

phivrne Contributor

phivrne

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, i just got a r32 N/A and was wondering whats some good exterior / interior or bolt on mods that i can.

Its Manual, 170 xxx on the clock.

4 Stud, which i hate.

I was think of getting a Strut bar or gtr bonnet.

and what needs to be done to get a GTR front end on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347790-just-picked-up-my-r32-na/
Share on other sites
aussietroy Proficient

aussietroy

Posted
Posted

It all depends on what your doing with the car when you get off you P's.

Im not really sure what im doing with mine after i get off my p's or if im just going to sell it and buy a turbo.

New wheels (hard with 4 stud so best looking for multi), Sound system, tint and lower on coilovers are all pretty good things to do.

I personally didnt like the look of the grey interior so i bought some leatherette retrims for the seats, door trims, console lid etc in black and blue with the nissan logo.

Another great mod is the white guage faces and led's in the dash but be careful not to screw your cluster.

I liked the look of led's in the footwell aswell as led undercars, but its all personal preference.

Im thinking of going a gtr bonnet/grill for mine too sometime in the future.

What colour is it and is it a coupe or 4 door ??

cheers

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

I'd tend to focus on two things before the cosmetic touch.

1) performance upgrades which means that the strut brace is a plus for 'turn-in' etc

2) advanced driver courses, because it won't matter whether or not you've got turbos.

Later on, you'll be all set up for a turbo car.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Yeah but i got a disease, probably like most people here, like when i get a car i always want new things :D

boys toys HAHA but yet its like a bug , i gotta start pouring money into it.

yeah you got it bad! >_<

thay say, the best cure is a G/F :rolleyes:

but then, when she asks, "If you had to give up either your car or me, what would you say?" :whistling:

jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

noting that you said 'i hate the 4 studs' i take it you have bog standard r32 wheels on it. that would be the best place to start if you ask me.

get some sweet aftermarket rims that also have a centre-cap to cover up your 4 stud shame.

here is what i got with my R33 NA. deep dish 17's.

this mod will improve both your looks and handling out of sight. (as long as your put decent rubber on em and also dont go for rubber band profiles...)

another tip if you head down this road, try to get multi-fit rims. THat way if you want to swap them onto a turbo down the line or even sell em all this is possible (also got that option on my rims)

enjoy...

post-68049-0-77164100-1292557260_thumb.jpg

aussietroy Proficient

aussietroy

Posted
Posted

noting that you said 'i hate the 4 studs' i take it you have bog standard r32 wheels on it. that would be the best place to start if you ask me.

+1, but if you dont have enough cash to get decent rims just take the centre cap off and spray your current ones black with acouple cans of wheel paint from autobarn (if its the alloys)

phivrne Contributor

phivrne

Posted
  • Author
Posted

haha i got a few 4x114.3 rims at home, cause i had a few cars before xD not on my P's yet,

so i have a few rims, but really never actually stuck to one car, i think i might keep the 32 :)

i see its pretty uncommon for a coupe r32 n/a manual, so i might keep it. someone can shed some light ?

anyways , i was thinking of the various mods, maybe i should put a Build tread xD..

would it be rice if i had a gtr kit on my car ? LOL or even get like a gtr key.. cause the feeling of having one with out the hassles of the law etc..

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

haha i got a few 4x114.3 rims at home, cause i had a few cars before xD not on my P's yet,

so i have a few rims, but really never actually stuck to one car, i think i might keep the 32 :)

i see its pretty uncommon for a coupe r32 n/a manual, so i might keep it. someone can shed some light ?

anyways , i was thinking of the various mods, maybe i should put a Build tread xD..

would it be rice if i had a gtr kit on my car ? LOL or even get like a gtr key.. cause the feeling of having one with out the hassles of the law etc..

..dont forget the badge...nothing says cool like a GTR badge..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...