Jump to content
SAU Community

Getting Traction In A 273Rwkw R34 Gtt

gwilkinson34
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

gwilkinson34 Collaborator

gwilkinson34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If your getting traction once the tyres warm up then it might be worth trying some different tyres that will work when cold. I've got 265KW and use federal 595SS and they hold traction really well, well in the dry anyway. i've put some different tyres on the back before and it was nothing but wheelspin. Other than that you could run less boost or get a tuner to adjust the tune so you get more traction in the top end which sounds lame (less power) but it will work out to be quicker than wheelspin.

Yeah it becomes an expensive exercise changing tyres...!

I think i'd like to try the ABS signal -> Haltech torque reduction feature... sounds pretty neat.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

When the car was on the dyno for an E50 tune, after a few runs the things were like glue. But even spinning them like mad all the way to work (10kms) when i get there they certainly ain't sticky... they cost me $600 a pop and i spent AGES researching and heard rave reviews but perhaps they were more track oriented...? :ermm:

Yeah sounds like they are more track oriented. KU36s can be had for $240-280 even for wide rears. Its important to work out what driving you do and what tyres suit best. I just went through that recently and I mostly either just commute and occasionally have a quick squirt so I need the tyres up to temp quick and doesnt matter if they get hot after 3-4 laps as I dont do anything like that. I can spend more to get better track performance and wet weather performance but I dont drive hard in the wet anyway either.

Dont throw your current tyres out just wait till they are stuffed. At the rate you are wheelspinning it shouldnt be too long haha

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Go for a drive and if you lay 2 lines then dont worry about the diff. A good diff is more for getting the power down earlier out of corners but generally you sacrifice noise and shuddering etc. Your complaint of wheelspin in a straight line is not going to be solved by a diff if its already turning both wheels.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

I had a Cusco diff... was the one with the springs in it to lessen the clunking/banging... it was still noisy and would shudder sometimes but well worth it to get the car handling properly IMO

+1

1.5 wasy nismo gt lsd pro tt over here... i fkn LOVE my diff

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Im not sure if its the same story but I swapped out my whole rear cradle for a GTR one, mines a R33 GTS-T though.

Much better hook up, no more open wheeling, and the axles/half shafts are bigger as well.

The whole swap cost less than a new aftermarket center.

Mark

PS RWDFTW

Jap_Muscle Mentor

Jap_Muscle

Posted
Posted (edited)

+1

1.5 wasy nismo gt lsd pro tt over here... i fkn LOVE my diff

Joey,

What positive changes did you see in performance when you put in a 1.5LSD?

My cars pretty violent in the first few gears and nothing short of soft. Running 275/19 NT05s and considering downgrading to 18s and slapping on some NT05R Drag Radials. Its making close to 300kw @ 4000rpm so its very on song. Traction is a bit of a issue these days

Would you recommend upgrading to a 1.5?

Edited by Jap_Muscle
gwilkinson34 Collaborator

gwilkinson34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Joey,

What positive changes did you see in performance when you put in a 1.5LSD?

My cars pretty violent in the first few gears and nothing short of soft. Running 275/19 NT05s and considering downgrading to 18s and slapping on some NT05R Drag Radials. Its making close to 300kw @ 4000rpm so its very on song. Traction is a bit of a issue these days

Would you recommend upgrading to a 1.5?

What setup have you got that's making 300 by 4k rpm? Traction would be an issue with that i'm sure! My 300 (on E50) is not up til 5.5k rpm.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

But if your diff is gone then you will still get wheelspin when your expensive tyre is heated up. But you dont, therefore it would seem getting some tyres that get up to temp quickly is your first avenue.

gwilkinson34 Collaborator

gwilkinson34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

But if your diff is gone then you will still get wheelspin when your expensive tyre is heated up. But you dont, therefore it would seem getting some tyres that get up to temp quickly is your first avenue.

Agreed. Just thinking of down the track when this car doesn't see the public roads anymore...

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Agreed. Just thinking of down the track when this car doesn't see the public roads anymore...

Yup gotcha, there is definitely place for a nice diff just didnt want to see you doing it to chase this issue.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

Joey,

What positive changes did you see in performance when you put in a 1.5LSD?

My cars pretty violent in the first few gears and nothing short of soft. Running 275/19 NT05s and considering downgrading to 18s and slapping on some NT05R Drag Radials. Its making close to 300kw @ 4000rpm so its very on song. Traction is a bit of a issue these days

Would you recommend upgrading to a 1.5?

the car hooks up instantly every time and goes IN A STRAIGHT LINE when the wheels spin ;)

for a car with that much power dont go the TT model tho, just get the normal model and deal with the noise :)

what do you use the car for?

Jap_Muscle Mentor

Jap_Muscle

Posted
Posted

yeh i notice mine always kicks out to the drivers side ALL the time.

The cars a street drag car. Custom drag suspension and all that. No sideways action at all.

seriously considering a LSD but i think some Drag radials should be next

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

i'd probably look at a nismo/kaaz 2 way then.... it's an absolutely amazing upgrade for a car, but if you're going to go drag radials, dont get the tt... just get the noisiest, clunkiest strongest one you can ;)

if your car is crabwalking you aren't putting down all your power, so it's just a waste :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • albyz34gt
      R34 N/a And R34 Turbo (gtt) Transmission.. Uh, Problem.

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...