Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have recently removed my boost "t" and only gettin 5psi from standard solinoid only one vacc hose going from solinoid to intake searched for two days now and cant find anything here other than how to remove dual stage part by earthing.

(items removed to clear defect)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348202-standard-solinoid-plumbing/
Share on other sites

solenoid plugged in? if you do the hack to get 7psi all the time does this work or is it 5psi?

also do you have stock ECU? iirc if you upgrade the ECU, the solenoid wont work as its operated by the stock ECU.

easy fix is to put the boost T back on

Supply boost from intercooler pipe to one side of solenoid. Other side goes to plain T one branch to bov return pipe other branch to w/g actuator.. there should be a restrictor which i think goes in the boost supply line to the solenoid. if you are missing that you will have less boost. You can simulate the restrictor for test purposes by lightly clamping the supply pipe ( don't cut off the supply or your turbo willl boost astronomically and likely self destruct!!).

the w/g actuator is only 5psi in R33 and 12psi in R32.

to get more boost you will have to use your boost T or boost controller. using the stock boost solenoid with the high boost mod will give you 7psi rather than the 5psi then 7pis after 5000rpm or what ever it is if its working.

  • Like 1

you were gonna buy a VN instead of going and buying a $20 boost controller to get it to go to 7psi?

that makes no sense... why would you want to downgrade like that.

If you get the standard boost solenoid and plumb it up you can cut one of the wires and earth it straight to the chassis and have 7psi constant. Theres a tutorial on it somewhere

As for the bit about the restrictor? I havent seen that in an R33 but I think there is something like that in the 34's but not 100%

the boost solenoid has 2 ports close to each other and one somewhere else, Im pretty sure the 2 close together go to the cooler piping and the BOV return line, the other line goes to your W/G actuator. What was said above about tee-ing the solenoid to the W/G actuator on one side and bov return on the other should not be done. There will never be enough boost supplied to the actuator to open the wastegate if you do this and it will boost till it goes bang

but I may be wrong about how it is hooked up, havent had a stock boost solenoid for a long time. should be able to find photos on here somwhere, probably in the thread to do the 7psi constant boost earth mod.

Edited by 89CAL

For the vn remark i was comparin 5psi to being close to vn spec. Im trying to keep car defect free (after removal of this one) so standard solinoid will surfice for now. Thanks for your assistance. Next time i see full stock r33 gtst ill have look at how things are ment to be

the w/g actuator is only 5psi in R33 and 12psi in R32.

to get more boost you will have to use your boost T or boost controller. using the stock boost solenoid with the high boost mod will give you 7psi rather than the 5psi then 7pis after 5000rpm or what ever it is if its working.

Wouldn't happen to know the factory spring pressure of a R34? Got one here looking to go on my car, would like to know if I should modify it to run lower boost? (an aim of 7psi)

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...