Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, as some of you may know i have a white aero kitted m35.

i was actually thinking about selling the car until yesterday! when i cleaned it and spent 5 hours clay baring the thing!

NOW ive fallen inlove again!... anyway the only thing that i HATE about my car is the terrible YELLOW fog lights in the aero bar!!!!

Does anyone know what kind of bulb it is?

whats the easiest way to get to them (before i start breaking things i thought id ask)

Where can i get different coloured bulbs!

also slightly offtopic

theres 2 buttons near the geatstick... synchro and snow.. can someone tell me what these do? mass noob question... but im a noob!

thanks guys!

merry christmas!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348360-m35-fog-lights-on-aero-front-bar/
Share on other sites

Search is your friend, especially regarding the Syncro/Snow button

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/321432-new-stagea-owner-m35/page__view__findpost__p__5245280

Fog lights are yellow and not white because they are fog lights.

White lights light up fog like a wall in front of your car whereas yellowish lights can penetrate it somewhat.

Globes? Again, a search for M35 Fog Light Bulb returned 1 thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/265907-m35-bulb-type/page__p__4540014__hl__m35+fog+light+bulb__fromsearch__1#entry4540014

Agree with iamhe77. The purpose of them is gone if you change them, the road becomes invisible when there is fog.

If you really want to change them you can get ballast kits for around $100 of ebay with the H4 globe included.

BUT! they are pretty dangerous as they can overheat and cause fires, and cops dont like them, and you'll also have to find a spot to bolt the ballast's to.

or you can get higher Kalvin halogen globes, but anything over 4300K (correct if wrong) is illeagle also

thanks guys, personally i think the lights in my car are frikin terrible... its hard to explain

i have all the genuine globes n stuff thats in it from japan except my 1st set of parkers is BLUE. theres a switch in the dash to turn my parkers from headlight parkers to fog lights. (does everyone else have this switch?, i would love to be able to get both of them on at the same time. perfect for evening)

anyway i know when it comes in for complaiance they change the lights or whatever but, not the case with mine as my unc imported it and pulled a few strings....

now the visibility with the fog lights and headlights on (half the headlight kinda evil looking,) its okay... its only amazing when i angle the lights up to level 3, but then i get people flashing me because its too bright, now im a friendly guy so i leave it on 0 all the time (pointed to the ground)

the visibilty range isnt HUGE but its f**king clear...

im not sure if it has something to do with my driving style, im constantly searching the road for big bumps and dips as my cars low and scrapes lol..(finally got around to lowering the coilovers)

in terms of fog... there isnt much where i live... and i usually wouldnt do this, but im happy to sacrifice purpose for aesthetics. i for the life of me cannot f**king stand the ugly yellow, looks dated!

this being said i saw an odessy with pink fog lights.. looked awesome. so a change of colour is definatley on the list!

sorry for my all over the place reply.

lol pink?

well if you get the HID Kit you can actually match the Kalvin rating to your Headlight's HID, means they are the same colour and same illumination. a positive is that they are all plug and play!

Its a rare thing for them to catch fire, but they can thats all. try keep them away from water, IE rain, puddles etc.

i dont know about the switch i have an ARX. but maybe you could connect the wiring to eachother and attach a seperate switch to the lower fog lights, so you can have them both on, or only one set on?

I would also get white parkers so that they dont stand out with the car. it will give it a classier look as well. but thats IMO.

My sisters V35 has all 8000k lights in the fog and the headlights. also the parkers are white. looks really nice!

personally i love the yellow keeps it retro and JDM.. and yes way better in the fog.. back in my 4WDing days i used to have the yellow covers for my lightforce spotties on my patrol when the fog was heavy they made so much difference..

I have the switch your talking about on my light toggle, i dont have fog lights in my bar though i have xenon low beam and the high beam globes are yellow fog lights at low beam and white at high beam. complicated but it works well..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...