Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to remove those rubber things that go on the outside of the doors.

Is it safe to just peel them off slowly or will it damage the paint?

Reason I wanna remove is they're turning yellow and extremely dirty and can't be cleaned.

Tips?

Pointers?

Full video walkthrough with pictures, music and boobs to keep me interested ?

Cheers

Nic

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348372-removing-door-bumper/
Share on other sites

best with a metal string/guitar string/window take outerer , but a thin spatchuler and some heat (and some care) and a bottle/drum of wax and grease remover to get rid of the glue left over then some cut and polish to try and make the paint not look so mis-matched :) will do the trick

  • 4 weeks later...

I did mine when i was paneling my car for paint. Im not sure id do it on a car that you were going to keep without touching the paint.The reason for this is that they get stiff and break and getting them off can be horribly hard. The glue is also bloody thick.

For me i got a paint scraper and got them off then used the paint scraper to get rid of most of the glue(it left a few scratches). I then tried thinners and this would have taken months so i sanded the glue off instead.

If you do remove them, just be carefull and allow a few hours to do it.

DUDE !!!!

NO!!!!!!!

please tell me you HAVENT taken them off..

sorry i dont come here that often!

they go yellow same as headlights... even brown.

if you want to get them back to BRAND NEW COLOUR

get some SIFA steel wool from bunnings, about $3 worth - wet it... and scrub it all off.

it literally comes back to brand new white. don't pull it off... it's old nerdy jap crap!!! YOU NEED IT!!!! haha

when i was 19 and first got my cefiro back in 2004 the first things i ever did was take the original window sheilds off..

...and the mud guards..

and replaced my bumpers with a wonder bodykit

...then years later found out how rare the "front lip" was...

...looking back i would have kept it stock bodied... with the guards... with the lip...

and just had it lowwwwwwwwwww...

but seriously. dont pull it off PLEASE

just use the steel wool method - on second thought - wet sanding will probably give similar outcome

  • 6 months later...

Bumping up an old topic here.

I did this to one door tonight.

Reason I did ONE door was because that door was Series 2 (black bumper, below the groove in the door), and the car is a Series 1 (body colored bumper, above the groove).

Pics of before and shitty quality pic of after.

Attracts less attention now.

192ob6.jpg

51q52w.jpg

Anyway, THE METHOD, in case anybody else digs this thread up in 20 years time and wants to know.

-HEAT! (I set up my 2x 500W work light about 1ft away from the car)

-Peel off the bumper, slowly.

-Apply shitloads of "Bug-Off" / Tar Remover. (Apparently can also use wax and grease remover)

-Scrape through the gluey shit with a razor blades.

-Don't try to take it all off in one run. I did 10-15 runs per working section (about 100mm)

-When it's down to less than 0.5mm or so, you can either scrape with your finger nail, maybe try steel wool, or in my case, just gently keep scraping with a razor blade, keeping the blade as flat to the panel as possible and applying even, easy pressure.

-Give it a quick clean with a hardcore foaming degreaser, so it removes all the dirt that lines the edges of where the bumper once was,

Rinse with water, and polish.

Amazingly enough, I can't notice a color difference between the exposed paint and what was underneath the bumper.

No sign of it EVER being there.

The only f**k up I made, was breaching the clear coat a couple of times with the razor, but that's easily fixed.

One door down, 3 to go.

Edited by Nic_A31

Had both better and worse luck with the front.

I didn't breach the clear coat, at all. But there is a noticeable color difference....well not soo much the color, but the clear coat.

I'm at a cross-roads. Don't know weather I want to chuck that chrome lining back on when I've finished all 4, or keep them aside for the other Ceffy, OR sell them.

qraiqq.jpg

suy72a.jpg

  • 1 month later...

To avoid scraping your clearcoat, you could use a plastic applicator to scrape.. If you use a heat gun/hair dryer and consentrate the heat to behind the moulding, that will help also. Just dont hold it close or for a long extended amount of time. Thats what we use at work, always does the trick... The reason for a difference in colour could be the door/s where painted before and they just masked off the rubber moulding.. Or it could be the lack of sun its seen, meaning the door's paint has broken down quicker. Try a cut n polish, it 'might' fix it or at least make it less noticable..

If you wet rub it with some 2000, it will only fix it if it hasn't been painted before. (Meanin the clours are different and no polish will fix that)

Hope that helps too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...