Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone!

I recently purchased an R34 GT-R :laugh: having owned a R33 GTS-t before i always loved the skyline!

Im planning on modifying just about everything and looking to have a nice tuff streetable and semi trackable GT-R by the end of it.

The car is a 1999 R34 GT-R V-Spec in factory white purchased from a private sale (carsales.com.au) car is very clean apart from a couple of very very minor things which nobody else would care about but me (im very picky i guess) they are easy DIY fixes,

but im very happy with the car money well spent in my eyes.

The car has done about 100000kms, the stock cluster was replaced with a nismo cluster at 80000kms

Its mostly stock with a few tastefull mods:

  • Apexi Power FC D-Jetro
  • Apexi N1 Evolution catback exhaust
  • Apexi Super induction kit
  • HKS EVC boost controller
  • HKS turbo timer Type 1
  • Skylab TSC
  • Nismo 330f steering wheel with works bell boss and quick release
  • Nismo 320km/h cluster
  • Nismo multifunction display
  • Nismo super coppermix twin plate clutch and flywheel (im very impressed with this clutch, its very light and easy to use, you wouldnt even know it was a twin plate)
  • Nismo side skirts and rear pods
  • Nismo LED Tailights
  • Nismo braided brake lines
  • Project Mu slotted rotors and pads
  • BJ Union HID Lights
  • Ganador Mirrors
  • Tein Super Street Coilovers

and a few other bits and pieces not really worth mentioning.

focusing on one area at a time first things first...

Ive decided to build the engine straight up because im a little bored of the factory power, im looking for something responsive and streetable, but something that can be violent at the same time, and reliable ofcourse.

Most of these ideas came from friends who have done this before, this is my first build.

Ive chosen the RB30, then got talked into stroking it to a 3.2l for the extra torque and a T04Z for some response hopefully.

Some of the parts are as follows...

  • Prepped RB30 block
  • Prepped RB26 head
  • Nitto 3.2l Stroker Kit
  • Nitto oil pump
  • N1 water pump
  • Tomei Procams 280 degree 11.5 IN and EX
  • Tomei cam pulleys
  • Darton sleeves
  • Supertech valves, springs, etc
  • 6boost exhaust manifold
  • Hypertune intake manifold <---- Still to be orderd
  • Rips Crank Girdle
  • Garrett T04Z .82 rear
  • Turbosmart 50mm Progate
  • Extended Sump

Engine is on the build, so it shouldnt be too far away unless we run into problems (knowing my luck) :dry:

it will be a little while before the engine goes in becuase i still need fuel system, intercooler, and so on.

While the engine is out i want to repaint the engine bay and have all the wiring hidden so everything is nice and neat.

Heres some photos from carsales.com of the car just before it arrived

Ive had it for about 3 months now :D and im very pleased

post-67868-0-67300200-1293084079_thumb.jpg

post-67868-0-95435000-1293084092_thumb.jpg

post-67868-0-53938900-1293084101_thumb.jpg

post-67868-0-62974400-1293084108_thumb.jpg

post-67868-0-72089000-1293084118_thumb.jpg

post-67868-0-46153900-1293084126_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348395-r34-gt-r-project/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Subscribed!

Pretty dam huge cams for a stroker. Personally i'd be aiming for something more in the step 1+2 range, to keep the usable torque band as wide as possible. Ive not read anything about the Nitto 3.2 kits before either. It would be interesting to know what the bore and stroke are that they are using.

Subscribed!

Pretty dam huge cams for a stroker. Personally i'd be aiming for something more in the step 1+2 range, to keep the usable torque band as wide as possible. Ive not read anything about the Nitto 3.2 kits before either. It would be interesting to know what the bore and stroke are that they are using.

+1, going to be one mental build

wow thanks for the quick reply guys :thumbsup:

i was told originally nitto was making a 3.4l aswell but it was scrapped and they are now only offering the 3.2l so i went with that

as for the bore and stroke of the kit im not sure to be honest but ill find out for you

the cams where recomended buy my friends, if they arnt suitable then they can always be changed i dont mind, like i said its my first build, but with people like you guys throwing me hints im sure ill be pointed in the right direction, its still a while before its going to be ready, plus i havent got the rest of the things i need like fuel system and so on...

ive learnt that all this building and modding is VERY EXPENSIVE pinch.gif lol its cost me an arm and a leg to get to where i am but i dont mind its been a bit of a dream of mine i want to get it out of my system!

thanks again for the quick reply and ill try and keep this as up to date as possible!

bore is 86.5mm and the stroke is 91mm pretty sure

I just found the kit on the high octane site and it says 90mm stroke x 87mm bore to make 3.212cc. Rod ratio is 1.69:1 with a 6" rod. At 8000 RPM that makes your piston speeds peak at 38.8m/s and an accelerate rate from TDC/BDC of 40.2m/s^2.

I suspect the reason Nitto abandoned the 3.4 project would be that piston speeds get pretty crazy with the 95mm stroke (43m/s^2 acceleration rate). But more importantly there is less material overlap between the mains and big ends which reduces crankshaft flexing and whipping.

The only way to make a 3.4 crank that would be as strong as a 3.2 or even a stock RB30 crank is to increase the diameter of the mains bearings another 5mm or so and then aligh bore the block block to support larger main bearings from something like a BMW or Ford Clevland engine. Oh boy are you taking big dollers then though. If I had to guess, RIPS probably did something like this with their 3.3lt engine.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...