Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just got a problem with my R33 the auto box it doesn't shift into 4th gear just keeps in third e.g high way driving to get to 100km/h it revs to 4.5k is there some plug that may have come loose or something in the engine bay or the any help would be great

Cheers

CHi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348892-automatic-r33-box-problems/
Share on other sites

there are a set of 4 looms at the front of the engine bay, under the battery. disconnect all 4, clean them with contact cleaner and try close up the wire clamp things inside the looms so they close tighter when you plug them back in. you'll know what im taking about when you see them.

that should fix your problem.

ok security the battery is in the boot for the R33 mmmmm and also when over drive is engaged nothing happens even when it is disengaged? like it doesn't shift to third or fourth it stays in second ? so is there any plugs etc i have to check?

Cheers

Chi

Hey security i've already sprayed contact cleaner and made sure the connections are tighter at those four plugs/loom but still nothing :/ but however i found two plugs at the front near the head lights/radiator which wasn't conencted to anything so any ideas heres a picture of the plugs

post-27271-0-38298300-1294391756_thumb.jpg

cheers

chi

yeah that will happen.

if the oil is low it will create heat as well as drop the oil pressure inside the box. the auto's gear changes relies on the oil pressure.

change your oil and see where that gets you. you may as well drop the sump off and clean the filter as well.

  • 8 years later...

bringing up a pretty old thread here but was curious if this issue ended up getting resolved?

may not be able to get an answer, just noticed half of the members that responded and created the post having been on here for quite a few years.

Edited by bazr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...