Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys hope someone can really help here, I've got a 1994 r32 gtr and ever since i got it it had an issue with the torque gauge (at least i thought it was the gauage back then) where it would show torque going to the front wheels prematurely. Back the the car was pretty much standard with 7 pounds boost and the issue didnt really make the car drive different.

Now the car has 20 psi and ive nearly lost control twice because of this issue. Basically the front wheels apply too early and to the best of my knowledge and according to the torque guage the front wheels seem to be engaging according to boost. even at a pound or two boost i notice the guage come on and under full boost the front wheels spin while the rears still have traction. Ive changed tyres and it did not fix the issue and yes all 4 where changed with the same brand and spec/size and it didnt help at all. I can hear the pump prime when i turn the car on and i thought that maybe the system wasnt bled properly the first time when i got it so when i changed the clutch me and a mate bled the system and it works the same as before.

Please help as it affecting the driving and my safety and i woould love to have the car drive the way it should

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348906-big-awd-problem-need-help/
Share on other sites

well...that is extremely strange. wheelspin at the front but not rear is pretty much unheard of, unlike many 4wd systems, attessa cannot put more than 50% to the front.

so unless you have some crazy wheel alignment (you already said you now have the same tyres all round), I think it is most likely to be a diff problem. It is possible you have a different ratio diff front to rear, and that might cause the issue you are talking about.

best to get a good workshop to check it out. if you want to check diff ratios yourself, get the car off the ground, and have 1 person turn the rear wheels while 1 person watches the tailshaft turn. You should get 4.1 turns of the tailshaft for 1 turn of the wheels if it is a standard diff. The most likely other options are 4.4:1 (gts4), 4.3:1 (stagea) of 3.8:1 (r34 gtr, I think)? Then try the same test on the front wheels. Different ratios front and rear will be a disaster for attessa, it is designed around rear wheel spin and moving to the front, never front wheel spin.

BTW that is all assuming you don't have a 1000hp drag car. If you do....you will have to work it out for yourself

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...